11 years makes a successful term as creative director of Y/Project. For Glenn Martens, that is the pointy end where one's time comes to an end. With over a decade as the executive brains behind the label, Martens has decided to step down from his role, effective immediately.
In a statement from the brand, Y/Project credited Martens for creating a “fascinating narrative for the brand, leading to an impressive period of growth, earning both critical acclaim and commercial success...Glenn Martens thanks Y/Project and Gilles Elalouf, the late CEO of the brand who tragically passed away last June, for giving him the support and freedom to express his vision while expanding on the creative artistry that the label established.”
Since the beginning of his tenure in 2013, Martens has always been a revolutionist. He forewent tradition and collaborated with Jean Paul Gaultier, tapping muses like Charli XCX, Mia Khalifa and photographer Arnaud Lajeunie to storytell for the label. At Y/Project, Martens sought creative impunity - and history ensued.
Now, the matter of a replacement awaits. Who will fill the shoes of the style incendiary? Luckily for you, we love to hypothesise. Ahead, our deck of candidates that we believe could manage a role as robust as this. Are you ready? It's time to vet. Here is who we think could be slated for a takeover at the Y/Project castle.
Lotta Volkova
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A styling superpower, Lotta Volkova has worked under the Miu Miu belt, alongside stylistic roles restructuring the visuals of Blumarine, Adidas, Balenciaga and more. Her love of storytelling highlights the electrifying thrill of the encounter, how fashion can explore different cultures, subcultures, and codes of dress across eras. Her cut-edge eye and laconic layering could be perfect for Y/Project's own sartorial convention-slashing.
Walter Chiapponi
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The aesthete Walter Chiapponi is notable for many reasons, the latest probably for ducking out of Blumarine after one season. With a start in Tod's, Chiapponi's styling is doggedly feminine: romantic lace brogues, sheer seersucker gowns and floral appliques were what we brought to Blumarine's AW24. Under his patronage, we could see a gauzier side to Y/Project, which previously existed only in the container of what I determine as recognisably c*nty.
Ricardo Tisci
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Yes, we believe the man that brought us Givenchy Fall 2009 could tack onto the ongoing lustre of Y/Project with his own finish. After two years out of the limelight, Tisci's return would mark a new chapter in the director's own career. It would also mark a return to a French house, after his days as the main man at Givenchy, which is a name synonymous with Parisian traditional flair. Y/Project would be its modern counterpart, and what a thrill it would bring.
Joseph Altuzarra
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French American womenswear designer Altuzarra helms his own label, of course. But he could be reportedly up for the challenge. Studying under Tisci himself, Altazurra is a fresh-blooded voice in fashion with a revitalisingly femme approach. His mission? To design a modern wardrobe for women to feel confident and sexy in their everyday lives. What's sexier than an invisible strap on a top? Ask Y/Project.
Ava Nirui
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Let us be abundantly clear: the suited replacement for Martens has to possess a level of nerve and a swagger in perspective. How else are you going to front a label that prides itself on its subversion? Enter Ava Nirui, the powerhouse behind Heavn by Marc Jacobs. Her subversive eye and roots as a community-based designer are integral pillars of any director-to-be. Without the connection to the people, what on earth will you be able to create? Nirui, if the reins are taken, could chart a new direction to Y/Project without losing any of its edge.
