While the concept of a list might seem at odds with the ethereal beauty of Haute Couture, for his debut couture collection at Valentino, Vertigineux, Alessandro Michele proved otherwise. Umberto Eco, the renowned Italian semiologist, explored the profound potential of lists in culture, art, and literature, positing that they are both a way to impose order on the infinite and, paradoxically, a means to evoke the very chaos they attempt to organise. This dual nature of lists—both finite and infinite, ordered and disordered—served as an inspiration for Michele’s first-ever Haute Couture collection for the Italian House, which unfolded as a visual embodiment of Eco’s philosophy.

At the heart of the collection is the idea that each garment is not just a singular creation, but a "list" in itself—one that stretches beyond the tangible, evoking a dizzying array of references, emotions, and cultural intersections. This ethos was evident from the very first look: a mesmerising gown, its textures and vibrant hues interwoven into an almost dizzying pattern. As the collection unfurled, Michele amplified Valentino's rich heritage, imbuing each piece with his signature maximalist approach. Silhouettes spanned grand, Elizabethan-inspired ballgowns and regal Tudor-esque shapes, while lace, cascading ruffles and bows also made an appearance, all unmistakably reflective of Michele's distinctive aesthetic. And, proving that the art of couture really is where Michele shines, the shownotes detailed the painstaking hours of handiwork that went into each piece, from elaborate embellishments to intricate lace, some spanning upwards of 1000 hours.

The finale, marked by strobe lights and intense energy, was a visual manifestation of the chaotic beauty of Michele’s vision. It was a perfect encapsulation of the paradox of the list: finite, yet infinite; structured, yet scattered. The collection, like a list, was an open-ended narrative, never truly finished, always inviting further interpretation.

In Vertigineux, Michele offered more than just couture. His haute couture debut for Valentino was an eloquent reminder that, like the list itself, fashion has the power to create, to transcend, and to expand the boundaries of what we can imagine.