For Tom Rasmussen, fashion is far more than a mere adornment—it's a cultural barometer, constantly reflecting the shifts and nuances of the world around us. As a writer, musician (who is just about to embark on their Live Wire tour later this month in England), and artist, Rasmussen views fashion as an essential medium for self-expression; a mirror that captures and critiques society’s evolving landscape. From the rise of eco-friendly fabrics to the critique of excess in luxury, fashion offers a visceral and immediate response to political and social change. It’s this unique blend of creativity and commentary that keeps Rasmussen deeply connected to the world of fashion.
Their latest book, Lee Alexander McQueen: The Illustrated World of a Fashion Visionary, is a deep dive into the life of the designer who forever altered the industry’s boundaries. Rasmussen’s admiration for McQueen began at the age of eleven, upon discovering the visceral brilliance of McQueen's SS01 Voss collection, which explored themes of horror, beauty, and confinements—a moment that ignited a lifelong fascination with the designers provocative and fearless designs.
Below, RUSSH had the pleasure of speaking with Rasmussen, as they unpack McQueen’s collections, collaborators, and creative process, capturing the essence of a man who saw fashion not just as something to be worn, but as a powerful art form capable of challenging society.
Do you find fashion a harmonious blend with your creative pursuits of writing, art, and music, serving as another avenue for self-expression? And what is it about fashion that you enjoy most?
I've always found fashion to be an immediate barometer for what’s happening in culture and politics. Yes, it’s inaccessible in terms of cost, but I think in terms of what’s happening in the world and how that’s reflected in what we wear, fashion is one of the fastest mediums to respond. From hem lengths to eco fabrics, to critique of the hyper rich – it’s worthwhile looking at.
Which collection of Alexander McQueen’s made you fall in love with him and his creative direction?
I remember seeing pictures of Voss, SS01, in a magazine when I was like eleven. I was obsessed. How could someone not be?
McQueen is absolutely one of the greatest fashion designers, what inspired you to create this illustrated biography on him?
I had written about him before for different magazines, and I was approached by the publisher. It was a lovely thing to be asked to dive into. And endlessly inspiring — not only his designs, but his attitude to challenging others and, most crucially, challenging himself.
How did you determine the appropriate structure and tone for this biography in your writing process?
We wanted to focus on the collections, so we built the chapters around that. And it felt important to then discuss him as a man, his background, and his collaborators and heroes — who influenced him. It was quite a nice and easy structure to create.
McQueen's use of provocative themes and challenging topics in his collections was truly revolutionary. What aspects of his approach do you believe left a lasting and celebrated impact on the fashion industry as we know it today?
I think it was a different time, but I think fearlessness and drama are real tenets of the McQueen world. Surprise, and having an opinion on things.
What do you think McQueen’s use of provocative and unconventional elements in his shows says about his view of fashion and its role in society?
Well I think he thought that art had a civic duty to push its viewer or its consumers to think more deeply about the world, rather than just relax and say “ahh pretty”. That is good for nobody. And so I think he had faith in fashion, and he had faith in society.
If you were to embark, and tell the story of another artist, who would it be?
Vivienne Westwood, or Madonna. The gay icons!
Was there a book you read growing up that changed your life, or the trajectory of wanting to become a creative?
Secret Diary of a Call Girl which is such a random answer, but I was obsessed with how candid someone could be about something so judged by so many.
Do you have a favourite book of all time?
Oh yes! The Sexual Life of Catherine M by Catherine Millet, and Wetlands by Charlotte Roche. Neither for the feint of hart. McQueen would have loved them!