Tokyo is a vibrant, dynamic, compelling city. An alchemic mix of food, rich culture and wonderful people, it's easy to see why it attracts countless visitors per year. Tokyo is also a city of extremes — it's an epicentre for technology and business, but thoughtful rituals and a profound appreciation for the natural world are deeply ingrained in the day to day. It's this duality that inspired Jo Malone London to dream up Hinoki & Cedarwood, the latest fragrance in the Cologne Intense range. Clean, fresh and grounding, the scent pays tribute to Hinoki Wood and the art of Japanese Forest bathing, an ancient practice that involves immersion in a green space to cultivate inner peace.
To familiarise myself with the scent story, I journeyed to Tokyo with Jo Malone London to lean into Japanese culture, Hinoki, its sensorial appeal and the magic of that comes when you stop and soak up the world around you. Postcards from the magnetic city, below:
I landed in Tokyo late in the evening, but it's an easy drive into the city (this efficiency was something I'd come to love about Japan). I was staying at The Aman — a few people told me I'd not want to leave but words can't really do the hotel justice. Warm, sophisticated and peaceful, it's a sanctuary in the sky. After a seamless check in, I finished my night in a hot bath filled with Hinoki chips. Bliss.
Obviously, one of the greatest things about Japan is the food. Breakfast at the hotel was a religious experience — if you're there, you need to try it. If you want something quick, the Onigiri from 7/11 are also pretty delicious. Other life-changing meals in Tokyo included Ramen at Kuro Buta Tonkatsu Ramen, Harajuku Gyozara (cheap and cheerful), dinner at The EDITION Toranomon (amazing rooftop views) and Narukiyo. So much fun.
And I have to talk about the shopping. The retail experience in Tokyo is out of this world. A highlight was the Jo Malone London Harajuku boutique. The flagship store was like a fragrance fever dream: scented clouds, shell-phones, drawers that sing, personalised gifting, exclusive scents and lots of magic. The boutique married Jo Malone's signature British quirk with whimsy and kitsch creativity. A must visit whether you're a brand fan or new to the collection. And if you're into vintage, I loved Vintage Qoo, Solakzade and Ragtag as well.
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After two days, we swapped the city for Karuizawa, a natural haven commonly referred to as Tokyo's backyard. Lush and mountainous, its easily accessible by bullet train but feels a world away. The itinerary was focused on forest bathing, but we started with lunch at Shola. The modern Japanese menu relies on local produce; Executive Chef Masashi Okamoto works with producers and growers in the area to curate a menu that's refined, visually striking and in tune with nature. It was a life-changing meal. The restaurant itself is also incredible — made entirely of soft blonde woods, the undulating structure is nestled right in the trees.
After lunch, we headed into the Hinoki forest. Green, cool and quiet, it's popular with locals and those living in the city to facilitate forest bathing, or Shinrin-yoku. The ancient practice is simple – you just stand, sit or wander – but it slows you down. The air is so much sweeter. There's actually a lot of science to show that the practice lowers the risk of certain diseases.
This ritual, and the soft freshness of Hinoki, informed the fragrance. The Jo Malone London team, including Head of Global Fragrance Céline Roux and perfumer Anne Flipo, travelled to Karuizawa during the creation process to seek out this inspiration. Their Hinoki Wood supplier is even located in a nearby town. Roux told me that until Hinoki & Cedarwood, he'd never worked with a fragrance house before.
Feeling rejuvenated, we headed back to Tokyo via bullet train (side note that Gran Class train travel in Japan is first class air travel equivalent). I spent my final day at The Aman spa (a massage that will change you), wandering through Omote-sando (great for more vintage shopping) and crossing at Shibuya. I don't know if the latter is a must-do, but I'd never been and the spectacle was worth looking at. Pre-fight, I finished at a traditional Japanese head spa. Two hours of cleansing, massaging, cream-bathing, oiling, combing and blow drying, and I felt like a new person, more importantly with fuller, softer, deeply purified hair. I went to Carina Ginza and highly recommend. Washing my own hair will never be the same.
More sights, smells and special moments from my trip to Tokyo, below.
Jo Malone London Hinoki & Cedarwood
