Like a large portion of Sydney, I spent a some of my winter in Europe (in my defence, it was a belated honeymoon). Most of the trip was in Sicily — my husband's family are from Catania — but it's definitely one of my favourite Italian outposts regardless. Sicily is charming, naturally beautiful and varied; I love that there's so much to experience on such a small island.
My itinerary was far-reaching, but I did spend a week at Tonnara Di Scopello, a 13th century tuna fishing port turned boutique hotel. It's notoriously difficult to book (there's only a handful of apartments and they go fast, especially during the high season) but incredibly special. If it's in your saved folder, the time to start making plans for next Euro summer is now. To inspire your own itinerary, I've shared my postcards and personal insights from the Sicilian haven below.
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When to visit Tonnara Di Scopello
I've been to Scopello in both September and July — I preferred September as it was quieter and slightly less humid, but any time during the summer will be magic. As is the case with the rest of Europe, July and August are the busiest months so you need to be organised ahed of time (this goes for hire cars, boats and restaurants, too). The Tonnara apartments are open for booking year-round, so if you're searching for peace and quiet as opposed to swimming, you should definitely consider the off-season (there's also the bonus of reduced rates).
How to book Tonnara di Scopello
If you want to stay at the Tonnara during the high season, you need to be organised. I got up at 5 a.m. the day high season opened up, and even then, the dates I wanted were gone. We rearranged our itinerary to make it work. You book directly via the website and need to pay 50% upfront. The hotel posts updates on its Instagram, but they didn't open the books on the date that was originally announced, so keep an eye on it. I even found a reddit thread discussing the booking process. At the time I thought it was insane to go to such lengths, but in hindsight it was worth it.
You also get to choose your apartment when booking. I booked the Taverna (Tavernetta) as it had a private terrace, an outdoor kitchen and looked back over the faraglioni from the other side of the beach (you'll see the view below). It also felt more private as there were only two apartments on our side. The rest were located in the main building. The public section of the beach sat between our apartment and the private beach for guests. It didn't bother us but something to consider.
Also, the Tonnara beach is available to the public. You can pay for a chair and spend the day swimming or laying in the sun. If you're staying in town or just visiting from the day, you can still experience it. For hotel guests however there is a separate private beach — to me this was the biggest draw, as it affords a secluded feeling away from the crowds.
How to get to Tonnara Di Scopello
Scopello is an easy 60 minute drive from Palermo, so you can fly in and book a transfer or hire a car. We actually ferried from Favigana (a nearby island) to Trapani and drove, it was about 45 minutes. You don't necessarily need a car if you're staying at the Tonnara (the town is walking distance) but it's not bad to have. There's plenty of guest parking, too.
My time at the Tonnara
Tonnara Di Scopello doesn't have the refined sense of luxury of a classic hotel (rustic is a word I would use) but it has no shortness of beauty. The water is crystal clear, the views are cinematic and there's a palpable sense of calm. I do think staying at the Tonnara elevates the Scopello experience in that it's private and peaceful.
Set in an old tuna processing plant, the rooms are simple but monastic; each has its own unique design. The service is slow (Sicilian time) and pared-back — it felt like a home more than a hotel. I was worried its Instagram fame might tarnish the experience, but it didn't at all. It's not a place to go if you like a jam-packed itinerary, there's actually not much to do in Scopello. Our days would involve a sleep in, slow breakfast, swim, maybe a nap, aperitivto and finally a late dinner. But in my opinion, that is the perfect vacation.
What to do in Scopello
Scopello is a really small village. There's only a handful of restaurants and shops; it's more about vacationing at a slow pace. But there are a few things I'd recommend:
- Shop for ceramics in town.
- Hike to Zingaro Nature Reserve — this hike has some beautiful swim spots so pack appropriately. Also, note that you need enclosed shoes. I turned up in Birkenstocks and ended up borrowing shoes off someone in the carpark to save the 30 min drive back to our hotel for sneakers.
- If you're interested in the history of Scopello as a fishing village, visit the Tonnara museum.
- Hire a boat.
- Be sure to do aperitivo in the town square.
- If you have time or feel like it, a day trip to Palermo is worth it.
Where to eat in Scopello
I'll be honest and say that the food in Scopello is not the best I've had in Sicily. The Tonnara itself serves breakfast (it's simple but great: fresh fruit, eggs, cold cuts, orange juice, toast ect) but there's no 'restaurant'. There is a cafe that serves drinks, gelato, granita and sandwiches/salads that services both Tonnara guests and those in the public swim spot next door. They do a great negroni, actually. But for a proper lunch/dinner you'll need to head into town or cook in your apartment.
My Scopello restaurant recommendations:
- Panifico Di Stabile E Anselmo: this is my number one suggestion. It's a very low key bakery but the sfincione is illegally good. The Cassatelle pastries are also worth trying.
- Ristorante La Tavernetta: I've eaten here a few times and have really enjoyed the food. Ask for a table on the terrace.
- La Terrazza: Not the best meal of my life but still enjoyable food, a charming courtyard and an incredible view.
- Aperitivo anywhere in the town square (I'd just choose the busiest spot).
- Alimentari L’Oro di Sicilia is the closest thing to a grocer or deli. If you want to take away snacks it's the best spot to go.
A few more snaps from Sicilian paradise...