Anthony Vaccarello's tenure at Saint Laurent has always been about the right girl with the right attitude. And ever since the beginning of his reign as creative director of the iconic French house, this has been the guiding path for his vision. For Winter 2022, the attitude remains true, but the girl has morphed into a woman, and she has never been more sure of herself.

As soon as the first model steps onto the runway, the essence of Yves is evident. When Vaccarello first stepped into his role at the House, he was consistent in his intention never to copy Yves, but to merely "wink" at his legacy in the most subtle of ways. To this he has stayed true, but as Vaccarello's Saint Laurent girl grows up, the houses classic bones reemerge in a perfectly balanced fashion.

Paletot-style coats are layered over flute shaped silk dresses in a way that makes us wonder why we ever thought to wear anything else in the evening, alongside clingy, floor length jersey and spandex gowns. The wink to Yves emerged in floral lapel pins – the modern day corsage – reminiscent of 1999/2000 collections where they were pinned to his signature tuxedo's; and in sheer gowns (like from as early as his 1966 collections) that peek out under coats and tall black turtleneck pullovers.

Elsewhere, Leather biker jackets are elongated to lend to the silhouette, collars upturned and zippers up, spandex leggings are worn with voluminous faux fur coats. In a mostly-black collection, chocolate, cream, and jewel tones punctuate the offering, one that is decidedly suited for long, Parisian nights. Later, Yves' iconic Le Smoking tuxedo is reimagined in a slouchier iteration.

This is part of Vaccarello's mastery: Art Deco is made cool, restraint lacks the expected notions of joylessness. It all comes down to attitude, and as long as Vaccarello's Saint Laurent women are on the runway, we will never be short of it.

Watch the Saint Laurent Winter 2022 show, below.