The joy of the Snowy Mountains is a juxtaposition of familiar and foreign. Driving across the alpine plains of Kosciuszko National Park you could just as easily be in the European Alps or North American Rockies. In the evening, long shadows cling to treeless frost hollowing, dancing through a cool palette. Here, we find the unlikely partnership of kangaroos and wild horses, two animals unified only in their abilities to graze and write-off your car. Fortunately, we passed through this landscape unscathed (just).

Thredbo is a small, mountain town in Kosciuszko National Park that skiers flock to in winter, as do mountain bike riders and hikers in the summer. It is a place I’ve thought about a lot as an adult. I skied here many winters as a child with my family, but as I grew up, I tended to opt for the more affordable option of warm climate destinations. This winter I was determined to get back on the snow after an almost fifteen-year hiatus from Thredbo. I was relieved to know that very little has changed - this popular mountain town has a charm that is hard to forget. And I was pleasantly reminded of the deeply satisfying feeling of exhaustion that comes from a day out skiing.

Stay…

We stayed at Cedar Cabin, one of two 45–square metre loft cabins by The Eastern in Thredbo Village (the other is Oak Cabin on the other side of town). These small, but cleverly designed cabins are perfect for singles or a couple (no kids), comprising of an efficiently designed open plan living space and kitchen downstairs, with a cosy loft bedroom upstairs. Vaulted ceiling and exposed timber give it simple elegance, with flooring heating in the bathroom and a large Japanese-style Onsen tub to soak in after a day out on the slopes. The large windows and balcony look out up at uninterrupted views of the mountain, so you can check the conditions before you depart, or watch the weather roll in. This modern mountain hideaway sits among the silvergums, and is located a convenient few minutes walk to the centre of town. It’s the perfect base for an adventure.

Do…

Ski! Or snowboard. But get out there on the snow. If you are a first timer, rent your skies from Thredbo and pair it with a private lesson to get a few essential pointers. If you’ve skied before, clip on your boots and skies and head up the Kosciuszko Express chair to Eagles Nest and plough through the snow. Make sure you have a map on you, and check which runs and lifts are open so you can plan your routes a little. Make sure to rug up, it gets windy up top. Book your lift tickets ahead if you can.

For non-skiers, there’s plenty to do. Make a snowman, then get on the Skitube, Australia’s only alpine railway, to Perisher and go tobogganing. Or wander around Thredbo’s walkable town and soak up the alpine lifestyle – hot chocolates, cosy lunch spots and Schappes après ski. If you’re here in summer, there are endless hiking trails to explore.

If you like to bathe, drive down to Yarrangobilly Thermal Pool in Perisher Valley – an unexpectedly warm (27 degrees Celsius), glistening green thermal pool in the snow mountains. In this quintessentially Australian landscape is a who’s who of eucalypts: ribbon, mountain, peppermint and snow gums mingle with alpine ash and candlebarks. In the summer, a generous supply of wild blackberries ensures you never stray too far from the walking tracks. In winter, the greenery is dusted with a layer of white snow like icing sugar. Nestled among all of this wild beauty is a crystal clear 20-metre thermal pool. There is truly no place like it in the entire country.

Take…

There are a few key things you should take to the mountains in winter, but whether or not you are skiing, you’ll probably need these essential items to stay toasty. A good beanie, some warm gloves (waterproof for throwing snowballs as well as getting out on the slopes), a backpack to keep things in while moving around the mountain, but in bright colours that can be seen in the snow. Wool socks (always). And of course, a good book. I was reading Blue Sisters by Coco Mellors while I sat in the window of our cabin as it snowed. Dreamy.

Eat…

The trip to Thredbo is 6–7 hours from Sydney, 8–9 from Melbourne, so making a day of trip there is ideal. From Sydney we stopped for coffee and pastries at Some Cafe in Collector, on the outskirts of Canberra. A farm-to-table cafe in an old colonial building on the side of the highway with a small gift store next door selling excellent books and provisions (open Thursday to Monday). Thirty mins away in Fyshwick’s Dairy Road precinct is Canteen, a ramen and izakaya bar serving, dumplings, hot soups with handmade noodles and a wide selection of sake. Highly recommend.

On the mountain, lunch at Black Sallees is a lot of fun. Located at the top of Snowgums Chairlift just of the Crackenback Super trail, they serve poke bowls, katsu curries and gyoza with a big deck and some of the best mountain views. Kareela Hutte is a favourite place to eat of the mountain for fancy European food (hearty plates of veal schnitzels, pork neck, and pasta), book ahead during winter. In town The Burger Bar is a casual option in the Riverside complex (where Cedar Cabin is located). They also do takeaway if you just want to retreat to your cabin. Some of the best donuts we’ve eaten are the ones from Doughnut and Coffee Hut at the bottom of Friday Flat. Filled with jam or coated in cinnamon, they are made to order and the perfect warm sugary snack after a day of skiing.