Jet setting from Milan, we've arrived smack-bang in the centre of Paris Men's Fashion Week – a schedule of collections punctuated by a few notably highlights. Of course, we're eager to feast our eyes upon Pharrell Williams’ third blockbuster menswear showing for Louis Vuitton, but we're also sad to be bidding adieu to designer Dries Van Noten in his final show (the designer announced his retirement from his eponymous label last month).
For all the highlights from the week's showings, read on...
Wales Bonner
One of the highlights of Wales Bonner’s SS25 Midnight Palms show was the unveiling of another striking collaboration with adidas, solidifying the British designer's innovative partnership with the sportswear giant. Holistically, the collection honoured the Trinidadian-born British artist Althea McNish, drawing inspiration from the vibrant nightlife of Caribbean coastal cities, reflected in the shimmering black and silver sequins of the new Sambas.
Louis Vuitton
Pharrell and Louis Vuitton took over the UNESCO Headquarters in Paris for their SS25 show, a collection that "celebrates the human of the earth," said Pharrell in his show notes. Pulling inspiration from a cult 1995 French film La Haine, and collaborating with creative collective Air Afrique, named after a now-defuct West African airline, the show had a distinctively unifying spirit. You can read our full review of the show for more notes on the collection, location and guests in attendance.
Kenzo
Under the spell of a sunlit Parisian afternoon, NIGO revealed KENZO’s SS25 collection at the iconic Jardin Du Palais Royal. The atmosphere was nothing short of enchanting, with the central Paris venue transformed into a vibrant safari scene, attended by a star-studded guest list that included Pharrell Williams and Maluma.
Continuing to blur the boundaries between Parisian sophistication and Tokyo’s urban edge, digitised plant graphics met alfresco embroidery and adventurous accessories in double-breasted suits with softened weeds and netted tanks grounded by KENZO-branded flip-flops. Muted green three-piece sets were paired with wide-brimmed hats and multifunctional sling bags, while tonal denim ensembles, embroidered neckties, and full-zip hoodies followed, punctuated by NIGO’s playful cartoon tigers on cropped outerwear and plush shoulder accessories.
Dries Van Noten
Dries Van Noten bid adieu to the runway with a spellbinding farewell SS25 collection in Paris. His soirée was akin to a family wedding, culminating in a mesmerizing fashion show that echoed his illustrious career. The night erupted into celebration as a mirror ball the size of a house flickered to life.
Van Noten’s Spring 25 men’s collection was fresh yet familiar, with nods to past shows like the Autumn 2011 Bowie-inspired men’s and the Autumn 2009 Bacon-inspired women’s collections. The silver-leaf runway, reminiscent of Autumn 2006, left guests with shimmering mementos. His final collection was a masterclass in relaxed elegance and artful embellishments.
Loewe
Loewe's spring men's show by Jonathan Anderson was a masterclass in restraint. Entering the vast, sparse space, guests were greeted by security guards encircling tiny metal mice sculptures and copies of Susan Sontag’s Against Interpretation laid bare on the floor.
To the haunting echoes of American composer William Basinski’s The Disintegration Loops, the collection unfolded with a minimalist allure. Slim black suits and repeated silhouettes mirrored Basinski’s sonic repetition, while gold-painted pheasant feathers adorned headbands, obscuring the faces of shirtless models in draped pants, and elongated dress shoes added a touch of eccentricity.
From 1950s checkered shorts to edgy biker jackets, Anderson’s eclectic vision shone through, his inspiration rooted in a black-and-white 1981 Peter Hujar photograph, according to show notes. "I wanted something which was nearly very knife-cut," the designer reflected post-show.
Dior Men
Kim Jones' Spring 25 menswear show for Dior was a star-studded spectacle, with a front row boasting Bad Bunny, Robert Pattinson, and K-pop idols from Tomorrow x Together. Instead of leaning into the upcoming Olympics with sportswear, Jones spotlighted his personal muse: 83-year-old South African potter Hylton Nel. Jones, an avid collector, showcased Nel’s whimsical artistry, with gigantic feline-human hybrids and playful cat sculptures gracing the runway. The collection was an artful dialogue that echoed Nel’s work, featuring naïve bird motifs, intricate floral embroidery, and slogans on knitwear ("Dior is for real friends").
AWGE
A$AP Rocky has always had fashion in his veins, but last Friday he lit up Paris Fashion Week with an off-calendar debut runway show from his creative agency, AWGE. Hosted at Karl Lagerfeld's former home and titled 'American Sabotage', the show promised more than just celebrity hype, despite being presented before a FROW that included Rihanna, Michèle Lamy, Jonathon Anderson and LVMH scion Alexandre Arnault.
Set to the first public taste of his upcoming album Don't Be Dumb, models stormed the runway in suits—some with shirt and tie, others in Miu Miu-inspired low-rise skirts – billowing T-shirts, layered tank tops, and baggy jeans. Hair was adorned in pearls or wrapped in vibrant bandanas, a perfect compliment to the faux flannel "shirts" draped around jeans and Rocky's PUMA Inhale sneakers, set to release in September.
