Milan, it's your turn. While we continue to journey through Britain with London Fashion Week, our eyes have roved over to the Italian fashion capital for our next taste of Fashion Month. Last week, we observed on-ground what New Yorkers brought to the streets at NYFW SS25, but now it's time to take our seats.
Historically, the Italian portion of Fashion Month is responsible for some of the most spectacular displays that haute couturiers have on offer. This year, we're expecting no less. Previous showings flaunted names like Bottega Veneta, Tom Ford, Gucci, Prada, Max Mara, Marni, Diesel and DSQUARED2. This year, come on field research with RUSSH as we keep abreast of the very best on show in the Italian capital. For your Milan SS25 Show highlights, read on.
FENDI
The Spring-Summer 2025 collection paid elegant homage to the founding era of the 20s, re-introducing the flapper silhouette that was a little lighter on the fringe. The FENDI woman does not quake in the face of change. Against art deco pillars, the models wended their way down to the show's sountrack, which featured the conversations between Silvia Venturini Fendi and her mother. The 100th year ceremony featured pencil skirts and waistlines that either dropped or lightly cinched inward. Sheer garments were worn as made, eschewing the undergarments as the core focus to draw your eye to. The finisher on many a look? The Fendi baguette, cradled in-arm in colourways of Beige. Further juxtaposition in the shoes were another touchpoint; models were paired in the low-heeled pumps in mettled white and pastels, others donned trucker boots. Against a pale seersucker pink, Kim Jones' FENDI was an enigmatic portrait of the '20s dame with a glistening finish.
Marni
It's a bug's life at Marni, and the living is decorous. Stylings from the Spring/Summer showing beam with chic oddities, like the well-placed antenna eyebrows poking out from each model's face. Starchy fabrics and floor-skimming capes, and oversized coats all piled out, each more elaborate than the last. The balance of quirk and colour struck without complicating the silhouettes. Accessories from brick-red bags and architectural hats were larger than life, playful, without fear. The final looks emerging finished in a cloud of sparkles, frilly scruffs, and plunging necklines. Since the show was a study in abstraction, it was obvious that the show notes would be equally recluse. Stanzas read like poetry, “The white rabbit darts, hushing the forest’s quietude. The silence parts through a vacuum, strange moon rises, undulating and bleeding pink to the darkness’s demises.” To that end, Marni invites us in, ponderously, to a world that is both transportive and immaterial.
