Fifty six. It's the mammoth number of runway shows scheduled at this season's Fall Winter 2024 Milan Fashion Week, which kicked off on Tuesday 20th of February with the FENDI show, and will close this Sunday 25th of February with brands like Giorgio Armani and Avavav. Milan is already the epicentre of some of the world's most luxurious ateliers, and we're expecting to see plenty of highlights from brands on the schedule like Bottega Veneta, Tom Ford, Gucci, Prada, Max Mara, Marni, Diesel and DSQUARED2.
If you're looking for all the Milan Fashion Week FW24 highlights to keep up with the water cooler conversations, or dialogue online, then read on.
FENDI
Perhaps channeling their inner office sirens, FENDI's FW24 collection took a modern approach to ideas of corporate, city-dweller dressing. Denim sets, inner-thigh brushing leather boots, and sheer polkadot garments layered over and under knitwear. The collection's palette was kept earthy and neutral – redolent of mossy greens, plum purples, supple pinks, khakis and ox bloods. There were a few bolder pops of colour that perforated the show – from electric blue stockists and asymmetrical knits, to yellow cinched waists and lime green balaclavas. Layering seemed to be at the core of the show's ethos – even down to layered leather accessories; larger bags looped through arms, stacked and tied together with contrasting leather pouches. Newly envisioned Peekaboo Baguette and By The Way bags were clutched alongside the new Simply FENDI soft satchel and Roll rounded shopper.
Diesel
In case you were nostalgic for the mass Zoom calls of 2020, Diesel backdropped their FW24 runway show with the screens of their livestream viewers. The brand has always loved to find ways to democratise their shows, this year opting for a digital Zoom party, with over 1,000 guests plastered onto screens that ran perpendicular to the concrete runway. Models donned ombre knitwear and neon florals, ultra-distressed denim and point-toe pumps in metallic silvers and leopard print. Multi-coloured fluffy coats, hoods and matching bags brought Muppet energy to the runway, and while most models' eyewear of choice were reflective frameless sunnies, we'd be remised for not mentioning the occasional neon contacts being worn – really brining home the sense of otherworldly party energy.
Moschino
Moving away from their camp direction under Jeremy Scott, Moschino's new look is all glamour and cool. Creative director Adrian Appiolaza seems to be channelling a more sophisticated vision for the House – perhaps leaning into their Milanese roots. But while the overt camp party was over, there was still plenty of subtle trompe l'oeil moments (like a shirt printed with suspenders, or faux sleeves wrapped around a cardigan) and moments of whimsy (paper boats as headwear, shirts made from ties).
Tom Ford
After Peter Hawkings made his debut last September at the helm of Tom Ford, the American brand has revealed their FW24 collection on the runways of Milan Fashion Week. Returning to the expert tailoring, slinky slip dresses and textural garments that made the label's name, the collection works its way from outerwear to suiting to evening wear seamlessly, closing the show with two sheer black crystal-embellished looks under sultry coats. The collection is a nod to the origins of Tom Ford's eponymous label, and evidence that Hawkings seems keen to lean into the original designer's vision of sensual and timeless clothing.
Max Mara
Max Mara called their FW24 show "a tribute to modern woman's emancipation". And their description seemed apt, as masculine silhouettes were transformed into the urban armour of authoritative offer coats, and power suiting. Counterpointed by feminine camisoles, belted waists and slip dresses, the collection was largely monochromatic, adhering to a colour scheme of inky blacks, navy blues and smokey charcoals.
Tod's
Leather was at the fore of Tod's FW24 collection, elevating essentials into the extraordinarily special. Reimagined trenches, oversized 'Field Jackets' and cotton cloaks rounded out the season's outwear offerings, while tailored suiting – featuring cigarette-leg trousers and oversized cuffs – pulled inspiration from masculine wardrobing. The signature Gommino loafer is refreshed with a subtle metal band and delicate fringes that create subtle movement with each step. Italian brushed leather Motorcycle boots and oversized bags complete the looks.
Aren't yet ready for your Milan Fashion Week FW24 highlights, and looking to catch up? Check out our highlights recaps for London Fashion Week FW24 and New York Fashion Week FW24.