Nicolas Ghesquière has always had a habit of drawing our attentions to the little things. Although, for his spring summer 23 collection, the Louis Vuitton creative director ensured the finer details were unmissable.

Zippers, buttons, buckles, belts, clasps – you name it. These were all swollen and engorged. In fact, from what Ghesquière has said, the zippers are allegedly the largest ever manufactured. Everything was scaled up, and if it looked alien, well that was kind of the point.

Longtime friend of the creative director, French artist Philippe Parreno was invited to create an installation for the show. The centrepiece was operatic, resembling a UFO or one giant blooming water lily, depending on who you asked. And together with James Chinlund, a production designer from LA, the pair conjured up a spectacle for the rest of the collection to launch off.

Indeed it did. For what speaks to femininity more than a gargantuan flower? The clothes and set were in conversation in that way. Codes of femininity disrupt the reflex for practicality, and how better to demonstrate this than with exaggerated features? 60s-inspired mini dresses and knee-high boots were dreamt up as though the creator was looking through a magnifying glass. Bulging collars and quilted lapels had to compensate for the sheer size of things, in a bid for balance.

The fabrics themselves called for double takes. Leathers were stamped with silver belt prints and gathered pleated skirts and dresses were tied with technical drawstrings.

Despite all the manipulated details, everything still felt utilitarian and wearable. The boots will stomp you anywhere and the outsized pockets are what women have been petitioning for, for years. Add in some ruffled baby doll minis and updated accessories, and you have something for everyone or everything for someone at Louis Vuitton SS23.

Watch the collection as it was revealed at the Musée du Louvre’s Cour Carrée in Paris, below.