There's a lot to contemplate already in week two of fashion month. Is New York Fashion Week really dead? Do gimmicks belong on the runway? How difficult is it for young designers to thrive right now? RUSSH contributing features editor, Isabelle Truman, overheard discussions of this nature during the New York leg of presentations.
Perhaps London, a city known for championing young designers, can offer a solution to the latter question? The British Fashion Council is notorious for its NEWGEN initiative and Fashion East showcase. And both will no doubt be a highlight of the Fall Winter 2024 season. But while it's easy to get lost in these conversations, I want to bring it back to the clothes. What collections and designers are our highlights from London Fashion Week Fall 2024 so far?
From Simone Rocha to Burberry to JW Anderson, these are the collections that caught our eye.
Simone Rocha
Simone Rocha has ditched the saccharine, leaning into a regal, dour collection framed by Queen Victoria's mourning dress. Like the monarchy itself, there is something off key... the furs, the new Croc collection? Done by the Irish designer, we can't help but think it's so wrong it's right. We love the pussy bow blouse and vulture-like black taffeta.
Molly Goddard
Molly Goddard delivers a collection frosted in frothy taffeta. With cheerful drop waists, polka dots, and a rich colour palette in shades of plum, bubblegum, watermelon and navy. Note the Western accents; it's not just Beyoncé and Lana Del Rey who are finding their country spirit.
JW Anderson
Jonathan Anderson said "grow up" and gave us a collection one could call "granny chic". There were shearling slippers, pointelle undergarments, sheer night dresses as if fashion from a coil of rope (Ariel would so love it), knitted polo shirts, and of course, coiled grey wigs. Hari Nef, Tracey Emin, and Charli XCX were just some of the names holding down the front row.
16Arlington
Marco Capaldo found his mind drifting towards the dark while creating his latest collection at 16Arlington. The resulting looks eerie, shrouded in black, featuring silver scarves which shimmer and a sheer powder white dress – both more ghostly than celebratory. Capaldo explored the idea of monstrosities, and the places in pop culture that house them; like the Black Lodge in Twin Peaks or curator and writer Charlie Fox's exhibition My Head Is a Haunted House.
Conner Ives
Alex Consani, Tish Weinstock, and Kai-Isaiah Jamal walked for Conner Ives, a designer who is rapidly becoming a cult name among the fashion set. His collection, entitled The Swans, was staged at Lancaster Ballroom in The Savoy, with clothes that carried a late 90s, early 2000s sensibility. It feels naff to say, but Carrie Bradshaw would definitely wear this collection.
Aaron Esh
This collection reeks of a little known woman called Kate Moss. The turtle necks, skinny scarves, Manolo Blahniks, sheerness layered with wool. Late 90s minimalism is here to stay.
Yuhan Wang
On our trend forecast for 2024, we anticipated that the blend of coquette, 80s fashion and a distinctly pirate-ish sensibility would morph into a return of the New Romantics. The Fall Winter 2024 collection from Yuhan Wang is proof our theory was on the money.
Burberry
There's no doubt about it, Daniel Lee is behind one of the most exciting fashion projects at the moment. With a distinctly British cast – Agyness Deyn, Lily Cole, Kai-Isaiah Jamal, Lennon Gallagher, Alva Claire – and an English sensibility, we've drunk the Kool-Aid. Also, a moment for the trim of wool locks and throat latches on the latest coats.
Derrick
OK Derrick, we're watching. The Central Saint Martins graduate taps into English tailoring with fresh eyes, with a collection that is elegant and expertly styled (we're talking about that jacket scarf loop). The colour palette, neck gaiters and socks tucked into trousers has a military effect.
