One of the design details that has always fascinated me in the world of Hermès is the Maison’s relationship with geometry. It’s a feature that is not only communicated through the objects the luxury House creates, but extends to the curation and creation of the boutiques too. It’s an energetic relationship that continues to drive the beating heart of the Maison, and with its latest horological release – Hermès Cut – it urges us to disrupt the preconceptions we have of ‘round’ watches.
For anyone familiar with the Maison’s existing timepiece collections, you’ll know that many of its creations – including last year’s new release, the H08 – have focused on more rectangular, or angular, silhouettes. But Hermès Cut is different to anything the House has designed before. A creation that evokes a more feminine spirit, a traditional circular shape is cut on either side, creating a distinct contrast between the soft, smooth lines and clean-cut edges. From afar, it could easily be perceived as a ‘simple’ watch, but according to Philippe Delhotal, Hermès’ creative director of Hermès Horloger, this was exactly the point.
“The vocabulary of form is something that we use regularly in Hermès creations. It’s part and parcel of our culture,” he tells me. “All the objects we create within the Maison have a form, and when we began creating Cut, the idea was to create an aesthetic response through a simple form.”
“But it wasn’t simple, actually. When you talk about simple forms, people assume it will be a simple watch. That's not exactly the same thing.”
And he’s right – Hermès Cut is a watch that becomes more complex the longer you look at it. The balanced proportions of the satin-brushed and polished case paired with the distinctive edges further accentuate the personality of the watch, while the unexpected placement of the crown, boldly positioned at half past one communicates a consideration that extends beyond the traditional functionality of watch design.
“When we begin designing a new watch, it’s important to me that it has character – a strong identity. We found that in Cut when we explored ‘cutting’ the sides of the bezel. When you look at it from afar, you think it’s a round shape, but up close it’s not a circle at all. It has a form, but what that form is, well that’s for you to decide,” Delhotal continued.
How would I describe the piece? Bold, sculptural, instinctive, versatile and spontaneous are all words that come to mind, but to Delhotal’s point, Cut is open for interpretation. Presented as a complete collection, the 36mm integrated steel watch is available in a selection of options that include full steel models to two-tone options in steel and rose gold. And if you’re after extra impact, all the pieces are also available with the option of 56 bezel-set diamonds.
Of all the dynamic characteristics that Hermès Cut embodies, at its core, the collection has been designed as the ultimate companion. “When I see this watch, I feel it has the personality and presence,” shared Delhotal. “It’s an everyday watch for me, designed with the intention of accompanying you in all the spaces that you occupy. A Hermès object is one that you wear, and an object must live.”
Editor's notes:
"We didn’t have a feminine watch with a mechanical movement, so we decided three years ago to create a new line.” The Hermès Cut is powered by a mechanical self-winding calibre, on display in the partly open-worked sapphire crystal caseback.
One of the main points of functionality behind the Cut was for the piece to be versatile. The watch is presented with the integrated metal bracelet, but a clever interchangeability system allows you to alternate with a rubber strap – available in a range of eight colours drawn from the Maison’s palette.
A core feature of the Hermès booth at Watches & Wonders were the incredible sculptural objects created by New York-based visual artist and architect Erin O’Keefe. The perfect companion to the free-spirited nature of Hermès Cut.
