Postcards / Travel

Ted O’Donnell sends postcards from around Greece

My wife Vicki and I have always promised each other that we would live a life of adventure and passion together. We've also had two young kids, which does make this pact slightly more difficult to uphold. Travelling to Greece for an extended period in the low season was an attempt to really slow the rhythm of life down to a crawl and show our kids the best version of ourselves for a brief, undistracted moment. Our time was spent wandering aimlessly, home schooling, researching local mythology, eating and swimming in the most beautiful water I've ever seen.

Greece is an enormous country, with endless possibilities, which can make deciding on an itinerary difficult but we had a very solid idea of what we needed and some seasoned travellers to point us in the right direction. I absolutely do not pretend to be an expert on the topic of where to go and what to do in Greece. In a place as ancient and foundational to the civilizations of the west as Greece, it is a good idea to give yourself time to explore and contemplate. Not a day went by where we weren't surprised by the beauty of the country and all it had to offer.

Stay

The island of Icaria is a place lost to time. It is sparsely populated and in the low season you will often find yourself alone on this incredible island.

The town of Armenistas is a good starting point. it has quite a few villas, hotels and serviced apartment style places to stay.

If you want to be self sufficient but with a touch of hotel comfort, Toxotis is a small resort like series of villas that has a pool, does a nice simple breakfast and is walking distance to the town.

In Athens, Mona is a gorgeous and unorthodox little oasis to escape the heat and energy of the city. It has a rooftop bar with an uninterrupted view of the acropolis, and when you step outside you will find yourself in the beating heart of Athens.

Eat

Where to start? Food is central to the experience of being in Greece. We didn't really have a bad meal. A few places really stood out to me. The Tiny village of Nas, a short drive to the west of Armenistas, not only has one of the most beautiful beaches I've ever seen, it also has two or three of the most charming restaurants we discovered on our trip to Greece.

Annas Tavern is a seafood restaurant that has been there for three generations. The son will serve you while the mum and dad cook you the freshest fish you've ever had – guaranteed caught that day.

On the mainland, Just outside of the Laconian town of Monemvasia is a small unassuming taverna called Athivoli. We ate here a few times and it was not only one of the most delicious tavernas we ate at during our time in Greece, but they make their own amazing Chilli sauce.

Do

Travel to a far away island, rent a car and drive. All of our best days were spent exploring new roads, and finding gorgeous hidden swimming holes and quiet, little tavernas with breathtaking views. The drive from Armenistas to Christo on Icaria was absolutely one of the most beautiful and surprising days we spent in Greece. Escaping the heat of the low coastal areas by finding some altitude and sitting under the shade of unexpected forests of ancient trees was food for the soul.

Shop

Shopping was definitely not on our agenda, however once we arrived in Athens and started exploring the streets and narrow alleys around Monastiraki square, it was impossible not to be drawn into the endless array of antique shops, flea markets, and music shops with incredible collections of vintage vinyl.

 

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