As an Italian immigrant growing up in Australia, Sydney restaurateur Giovanni Paradiso says food in his family was always all about the rituals, the seasons, and the produce. They always sat at the table together. “There wasn’t much money, nor was there emotional nurturing, we were nurtured through the language of food.”
What are the 10 ingredients you always have in the fridge?
As a restaurateur, my fridge is notoriously understocked (my restaurants are my fridges) and I am more of a shop-for-the-moment kind of person. Maybe it’s a little more sustainable that way. But if I was to have a well-stocked fridge, there would always be a seasonal fruit, a seasonal vegetable, soft herbs, good butter, Parmigiano Reggiano, pecorino, fresh ricotta, a good mustard, fermented chilli, lemons and wine.
What is your most memorable dining experience?
I have far too many to remember one exclusively, and far too many still to come. Everything is about time, place and magic.
What influenced your love of food?
Growing up as an Italian immigrant, I guess it was all about the rituals, the seasons, and the produce. They always sat at the table together. There wasn’t much money, nor was there emotional nurturing. We were nurtured through the language of food.
Who is the best cook you know?
Obviously, so many of the chefs I have worked with, past and present, but in reality, anyone who really takes the time, and who gives a fuck will be a good cook.
Who is on your dream dinner party table?
Whoever makes you happiest, whoever is interesting at the time, whoever you want to seduce at the time, whoever is open to thought and ideas and whoever never wants it to end.
Share the menu of your last supper ...
Spaghetti al Pomodoro, a bottle or two of Domaine des Miroirs Ploussard, some figs, some cigarettes and a balcony in southern Italy.
What is your favourite vegetable (we believe it tells you everything you need to know about someone)?
Easy. Wild bitter greens (cime di rapa, chicory, cavolo nero, etc.) boiled, drained, squeeze out the excess water, hot pan, a little garlic, a little chilli and good glug of the best EVOO at the end. It’s heaven, sustaining, has wonderful bitter flavours, and so good for you.
Top five favourite places to dine?
Fratelli Paradiso and 10 William St. I absolutely adore eating in my venues; there’s always something great going on, people to meet and friends to hang and share a meal with. Also, Japan the never-ending road of discovery, flavours and good times. Italy – because it’s home, particularly the south, just honest cooking. My Mother’s kitchen when she was alive.
Recipe for Focaccia in Teglia (serves 6-8)
Growing up, this was the Friday after-school snack and was present at any picnic, eaten always after it had cooled. It’s a simple recipe that requires time and patience but will cost you very little and will impress all who eat it. You will need one large bowl and a decent size baking tray.
Ingredients
500g baker’s flour
400g water
6g fresh yeast or 12g for dried yeast
10g salt
20g extra virgin olive oil
400g (1 can) peeled tomatoes – the best quality you can get, it makes a huge difference. I prefer San Marzano
Dried oregano – something good, nothing generic, not stale. You can usually find dried bunches of it at good grocers
A couple cloves of garlic
EVOO
Salt
Method
(1) Dissolve yeast in water (room temp) and add to the flour in your large bowl. Give it a good mix with your hands. Leave covered with tea towel for 30 minutes. Add EVOO and salt and work by hand to combine. Cover and leave for 30 minutes. Next step is done in the bowl (make sure you rub hands in EVOO before). Begin a process of pulling and folding the dough until it forms a smooth dough, it should take a couple of folds. Once it resembles a smooth dough, cover and leave for 30 more minutes. Repeat this pull-and-fold process two more times, covering and resting every 30 mins. Cover bowl in cling wrap and put into the fridge. Leave for at least 24 hours, up to 36 hours is fine. Take the bowl out and let come to room temperature.
(2) Coat a baking tray with EVOO and place in dough. Let it settle for 30 minutes, covered. Gently work dough into corners by gently pressing fingers into it. Once the dough has covered the tray, give it another 30 minutes of rest.
(3) For the topping, crush peeled tomatoes by hand, add finely sliced garlic, and salt in a bowl. Top focaccia with the mix, using your hands to cover completely all up to the sides. Add a big sprinkle of oregano and another slug of EVOO. Rest for 15 minutes. Put into a preheated oven at 250° C for 10 minutes, then lower to 230° C for another 10 minutes. Take it out and cut into rectangular slabs. Serve immediately. Basta, buon appetite.
