Live from the annals of the Brooklyn Museum, in the city of New York, the French fashion house of Dior unveiled their Fall 2024 collection.
House creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri dedicated this collection to the silver screen legend Marlène Dietrich, in homage to her androgynous stylings and to the relationship at large between the French fashion house's home turf of Paris and the bright lights of New York City.
The collection...
The collection was comprised of neutrals and timeless silhouettes, from long-line coats to shirting and trousers, to belted tuxedo-style dresses with collars. The through lines to Dietrich and ideas of 1920-1940s wardrobing was certainly pertinent throughout the collection – with plenty of ties and Brixton-style caps on display. Other looks felt redolent of Dietrich's contemporaries on screen, from Charlie Chaplin-esque bowler hats and ultra high-waisted trousers, to trench coats like the one donned by Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca.
Despite the House's meditation on old styles, the cuts and materials felt contemporary – blazers bordering party-wear with the addition of fringed details, and heels being paired with either calf-height fishnets or semi-sheer black scrunched socks. Flapper-style tassels were updated in in all-black, and earrings were worn uniquely asymmetrical.
The inspiration...
For the Dior Fall 2024 show, Maria Grazia Chiuri nods to the "uncompromising personal style of actress Marlène Dietrich" as a guiding inspiration. Dietrich was a wearer and admirer of the French Maison's collections during her lifetime – and was a close friend of Monsieur Christian Dior himself. Chiuri in particular pays homage to the binaries present in Dietrich's personal style – from extreme femininity to the androgynous suits and ties she would become so infamous for (it was considered scandalous at the time).
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The set...
Playing into the sights and sounds of New York's night life, neon-lit signs floated like spectres, serving as a backdrop to the collection's unveiling. The light sculptures were created by feminist, conceptual artist collective Claire Fontaine, which was founded in Paris in 2004, but who currently live and practice in Palermo, Sicily. The sculptures were intended to reference Rome-based, Brooklyn-born feminist artist Suzanne Santoro.
Models walked down a wide, mosaic-tiled runway, each walking on-beat to the thumping bass-line and funky riff of an electric guitar, and flanked by guests of the Maison.
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The guests...
There were plenty of muses, ambassadors and friends of the Maison in attendance at the Dior Fall 2024 show, including Anya Taylor-Joy, Karlie Kloss, Rosamund Pike, Haerin (from New Jeans), Rachel Zegler and more.
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