Dior menswear maven Kim Jones is known for his penchant for artistic whimsy. It's embroidered into his stylistic ethos, a hallmark of functionality meets subversion in the ready-to-wear showings of his work. We saw this in his Fall Winter '24 showing, where he brought the world of coquette to menswear. Now, he's turned his sights to the savoir-faire. Presented in the heart of Paris, Jones fuses his atelier work with South African ceramicist Hylton Nel. As models weaved around a vastly sized kiln and feline heads in Dior menswear, the world watched as the house's latest presentation swerved from conceptual to the lightly practical in his latest show.
The collection...
Black co-ords, knits, and clogs were mainstays in the collection. Artist Hylton Nel's craftsmanship took form in the sweet dog motif that crested the show invitations, alongside the brooches that adorned many shirts. Jones mentioned in a press viewing that this collection would present less conceptual than his previous and more “wardrobe-y”. The transition has been seamless: the knits and pieces are patterned whimsically, the ceramic inclusions not clunky but lived-in. Footwear takes its inspiration from one of the most hardwearing shoes, the humble clog.
Even materials of linen, raffia and leather are all conscious decisions and imbue the sculptural with a shining sense of comfort. Tonally, this trend followed in shades of natural plum, oatmeal, chocolate browns and tans. The British designer also pulled on his own impressive knowledge of atelier history, referencing the Dior era of 1947-1957 and distilling it back into modern day. Models also donned cloche hats for a touch of summer.
The location...
This season presented on the grounds of Paris’ Val-de-Grâce – a new outpost from the École Militaire, where Jones previously showed past collections. The location, while spectacular isn't the prominent focus. The specifically crafted exhibition space was the buffer for Nel's incredible works to shine. The hand-drawn motifs were blown to life in pastels of light blues and mint greens, inspired by Jone's visits to Nel’s art-filled residences in Calitzdorp, Western Cape in South Africa. Dogs, birds, cats, and fauna come to life in Nel's brooches, sculptures, and twinkling on the edges of Jone's clothes.
The guests...
When Dior calls, hordes follow. Key faces that were sighted included: Robert Pattinson, Bad Bunny, Kate Moss, Brooklyn Beckham, Casey Affleck, Demi Moore & Scout Willis, and Xavier Dolan. Australian actor Felix Mallard was also present.
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