There are a few things that Copenhagen Fashion Week is known best for. Most notably, the unpretentious street style imagery that comes out of the week is energetically unparalleled; it is one of the only fashion weeks in the world that prides itself on its sustainability measures, drawing brands whose ethos' align from across the globe to participate in showing their collections in the Danish capital; and Danish designers seem to have a knack for knowing exactly what we want to get around in. Some of the most joyful brands have made global headway in the past years. We can thank GANNI for beautiful, puffy dresses, ROTATE for the sexiest going-out dresses, and Saks Potts for introducing a love for pastels and offering up the coat of the season time and time again.
As far as emerging designers go, there is no shortage, either, and this season at CPHFW, under its newly launched incubator program NEWTALENT, emerging designers caught our eye. From slinky separates at A. Roege Hove to lessons in tailoring at Latimmier, these are the five emerging danish designers on our radar from Copenhagen Fashion Week Spring 2023.
A. Roege Hove
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Amalie Røge Hove's eponymous brand first began as a knitwear offering that challenges traditions with a modern and artistic approach to original craftsmanship. For her Spring 23 collection, revisiting her earliest designs were integral to the collection. There were sheer, ribbed turtleneck racer backs paired with cotton knitted wrap skirts, separates in the shades of lilac and apple green, highlighted by slinky, monochromatic pieces. For an emerging label, Hove has done a near perfect job at tapping into all of the tiny things we want to be wearing in summer.
Latimmier
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Under CPHFW's NEWTALENT program, Finnish designer Ervin Latimer showed his collection in a CrossFit gym and offered up a tight collection of modern tailoring. The runway, titled “Juvenile Expectations,” featured oversized shirts with hook-and-eye removable sleeves, glossy suits, and strappy poplin separates alongside ties and cropped tank tops.
Jade Cropper
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After launching her namesake brand in 2020, Jade Cropper has had an unprecedentedly successful two years. With an eye for upcoming trends and a silhouette that is increasingly and distinguishably her own, this years SS23 show drew on her previous work and levelled up. There were distressed, acid washed denim gowns, strappy, dystopian dresses, monkish leather jackets, and slinky jersey two pieces. If there is anyone we have out eye on for an emerging "it" brand, Jade Cropper is at the top of the list.
Sunflower
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If you're of the impression that CPHFW is all about floral dresses and colourful coats, let Sunflower prove you wrong. Despite its name, Sunflower's founder Ulrik Pedersen is focussed on making wardrobe staples without the fuss, and we mean this literally. Staging an array of shows since 2018 in random places, in random slots in the CPHFW schedule (this years was a show with standing-room-only, that was set up in the courtyard outside the Sunflower offices), leaving the clothes to speak for themselves. What are they saying? Mostly, that you'll have them forever, existing in the space between achingly trendy and extremely classic. There are leather bombers, shorts, and pants paired with perfect white ribbed tank tops; shiny marbleised silk suits, double breasted tailored blazers, and pinstripe jackets. Arguably the best part, was how well everything was fit.
P.L.N
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Spelling out the founder and creative director, Peter Lundvald Nielsen's initials, the previous Balenciaga, Vetements, and Ottolinger alum brought out rapper Blackhaine for his SS23 show, which was as rebellious, deconstructed, and utilitarian as his design background. As part of CPHFW’s NEWTALENT program, it was a melting pot of European punk, club kid, and gothic influences that saw models exit clad in crotchet crop tops, distressed denim jeans, dresses that coverted into hooded sweatshirts, and moto-mami-esque leather bikini tops and mini skirts.
