One can draw a few simple parallels between Maria Grazia Chiuri and Catherine de Medici. Both are Italians living in Paris, and their influence on fashion – Chiuri as the creative director at Christian Dior and de Medici's legacy over her court – is incomparable.

For the Christian Dior spring summer 23 collection, Chiuri was inspired by the French queen, a noblewoman born into the powerful Medici family who married King Henry II in 1533. During her time as queen, de Medici introduced Burano lace, platform heels and corsets to the French court, as such all three elements feature heavily within the collection.

Models stepped out into a cavernous set, made entirely of cardboard and crafted by French artist Eva Jospin. There were dancers too, performing the choreography of Imre and Marne van Opstal. With the set acting almost as though it were a portal, Chiuri created a dialogue between past and present. The subject? Power dressing.

Corsets were animated as accessories, styled over shirts with voluminous sleeves like those worn by men in the early renaissance. Hooped skirts made an appearance, and patchworks of raffia lace, broderie anglaise and that Venetian lace was integrated into just about everything. Look 43 was the exception, drifting away from the clothes of nobility and riffing on the peasant dress instead, in a sandy colour palette that'll stay in my mind throughout spring.

These contrasted nicely with the more technical fabrics and and furnishings of the collection. Drawstrings gathered waistlines and skirt hems, as if to present Christian Dior's own take on the cargo skirt trend. Our eyes were fixed to the footwear too, which emulated this balance between old and new perfectly. Mary janes with buckles that crawled all the way to above the calf shone, their heels a curved stump to pay tribute to the de Medici's era.

Watch the Christian Dior Spring Summer 23 show, below. Or preview our favourite looks from the collection underneath.