In the world of haute horlogerie, CHANEL has always had a long-standing and loyal fan base, but at this year’s Watches & Wonders, the French luxury house exceeded expectations. A true immersion into the intricacies of Gabrielle Chanel’s atelier, both the collection and the booth itself showcased a remarkable dynamic between innovative design, watchmaking and authentic storytelling. This year’s collection – which spanned across the CHANEL families from J12 to Première, CHANEL Couture O’clock and more – felt like natural extensions of the narrative the Maison has been refining in this space.

J12, a collection that is emotive in its ethos of living deeply in every moment, paired with a practical sensibility that finds its roots in luxury sports watches, was celebrated heavily in this year’s releases. Among the offering, CHANEL presented a re-edition of its 2022 creation, the J12 Tourbillon Diamant – featuring the House’s first flying tourbillon movement. For this edition, CHANEL has continued the aesthetic interpretation of the collection, launching the watch in both a matte black ceramic and white ceramic variation. A key highlight for me was the solitaire diamond that was placed in the centre of the tourbillon case – the way it catches the light as it spins is truly hypnotic. “The diamond was Gabrielle Chanel’s favourite stone. J12 is a muse and the CHANEL Watch Creation Studio wanted to create a unique diamond,” shared Arnaud Chastaingt, director of the CHANEL Watchmaking Creation Studio.

Elsewhere in the J12 family, the Calibre 12.1 (revealed in 2023) receives a dazzling upgrade, combining for the first time 18-carat yellow gold with a bezel set with 50 brilliant-cut diamonds and a dial featuring 12 that mark each hour. The addition of the eye-catching details brings a new sense of excitement to a CHANEL icon that can be worn seamlessly day-to-day.

It should come as no surprise that this year’s novelties are littered with homages to the CHANEL universe, creating a synergy between ready-to-wear and horology. From subtle inferences and motifs (most notably, the lion – a symbol of power and majesty and a nod to Gabrielle Chanel’s astrological sign), to more literal interpretations that transport you through time to the cutting room floor, the collection is playful, but ingeniously crafted; speaking to the guiding principles of haute couture.

It’s hard to look past the First Ruban Couture Watch, a timepiece that has been transformed to represent a tape measure wrapped around the wrist. The double-wrap bracelet is crafted in black leather, which is then braided and lined with gold leather before the tape measure pattern is printed on. The contrast of the titanium and 18-carat yellow gold case is completed with the charm bearing the images of Mademoiselle, the final touch to a timepiece that would make anyone do a double-take.

From pincushions that conceal watch faces to meticulously crafted cuffs, necklaces and rings that only show the time if you’re really looking for it, the magic of CHANEL’s 2024 novelties is in the unexpected. Which quite naturally brings me to my favourite piece of all, the Première Sautoir-Ceinture watch. A new, limited-edition creation that reinterprets the codes of the Première Edition Originale. The timepiece is fashioned as a belt, encouraging the creation to be worn as a fashion accessory and extension of an outfit, rather than on the wrist. Stylistic expression in its purest form.

Editor's notes:

The Première Manchette is the other half of the new, limited-edition releases within the Première family. The steel chain bracelet coated with 18-carat yellow gold (a motif of the House) is unmissable on the wrist – all that’s missing is a perfectly tailored white suit to accompany it.

Inspired by the needle pick – an essential working tool for a seamstress – the creation is equipped with an unusual case on which a curved glass rests. Touches of gold, diamonds, mother-of-pearl and onyx adorn the dial, creating a pattern that both resembles the tool and simultaneously tells the time.

My head and my heart are stuck in a never-ending loop dreaming about this piece. Function meets form in the Première Sautoir-Ceinture watch, proving the ultimate case for versatility.