The CHANEL Spring Summer 25 Haute Couture collection, presented at the iconic Grand Palais, was a striking homage to Gabrielle Chanel’s revolutionary relationship with colour. Known for both her radical use of black, and her bold exploration of the full colour spectrum, Gabrielle Chanel was both a master of darkness and light. Fittingly then, this collection, conceived by the House's Creation Studio, explored that duality with a mesmerising blend of delicate pastels and vibrant tones.
This chromatic journey began with dawn-inspired hues—soft pink silk crêpe ensembles, classic tweed suits in sunshine yellow, and lilac dresses—progressing seamlessly into richer tones as the show moved into night. Think: orange-pink coats over purple jacquard dresses echoing a golden sunset, mimosa-hued suits with pale pink flounces, and shoes in shades from sky blue to violet.
2025 marks the 110th anniversary of CHANEL Haute Couture. To commemorate this milestone, the Design Studio delved into arguably one of the most significant codes of the House: tweed. The quintessential CHANEL fabric took centre stage in a variety of new forms this season, from painted and embroidered suits to graphic, multicoloured, and embroidered braids. Satin linings in sublime hues—green, royal blue, pink, and purple—added an extra layer of depth to the collection, while CHANEL’s signature buttons, now reimagined as moons, suns, and camellia flowers, adorned the garments, subtly nodding to the brand’s storied history. Black velvet belts embellished with celestial motifs further emphasised the lasting influence of black in the House’s DNA.
The collection was also marked by a striking play on proportions, with ethereal fabrics allowing for a fluid exchange between short and long, delicate and structured. Dresses ranged from delicate, embroidered chiffon pieces with stardust-like embellishments to more structured looks, like a pale yellow satin shirt dress with pleats. A dramatic sky-blue cape and long, flowing dresses were juxtaposed with shorter, more tailored styles, creating a striking balance of lightness and form. Subtle trompe l’oeil effects and intricate pleating gave the garments a dreamlike quality, where the fabric appeared to shift in both colour and texture as the models moved.
As the House prepares to enter a new era under the helm of newly-appointed Artistic Director Matthieu Blazy, the Creation Studio paid tribute to the artistic innovation that has, and will continue, to define each collection, with Gabrielle Chanel’s legacy felt in every stitch. This simultaneous nod to the past and look towards the future was also echoed in the set design: the runway took the form of CHANEL's signature double C, arranged by scenographer Willo Perron, to take the shape of an infinity symbol.
