A small but still detectable gasp escaped my mouth – “is that… a mini Tank?” Sure enough, displayed right in front of me, Cartier’s iconic and eternally distinguishable emblem was bringing a new meaning to the saying “good things come in small packages”. During a week where grandeur is not only anticipated, but expected, it was the mighty confidence of this bite-sized creation that had actually stopped me in my tracks. But upon reflection, its impact shouldn’t have come as such a surprise.
For as long as I can remember, the hysteria that fuels horology has been encapsulated by this feverish demand for innovation. And for the most part, this has typically related to the development of new complications, or even the patenting of advanced techniques that have challenged the boundaries of design. These accomplishments are certainly not going anywhere – but if there’s one thing that feels undisputedly clear, it’s that people are hungry for a new and different watch-wearing experience.
Even if I am alone in my observation, it certainly goes some of the way in explaining why two of the Maison’s other novelties – Reflection and the Santos-Dumont Rewind – have been at the forefront of conversations. Blurring the lines between jewellery and watch making – a synergy Cartier knows and does so well – Reflection de Cartier is a continuation of this odyssey of magic, illusion and fascination. More accurately described as a “sculpture to wear on the wrist”, both in design and in the way it redefines the visual communication of timekeeping, Reflection is disruptive to its core. Architecturally innovative, the visual rhythm and flow are continuously challenged, with different sections and the contrast of angles and faces interrupting the piece.
In the realm of Santos, the heart and soul of the collection has continuously championed a spirit, style and pioneering energy – so, when I held the Santos-Dumont Rewind for the first time and saw the reversed roman numerals in action, it instantly felt like a natural challenge for the French Maison. Setting out to actually change the course of time from both a technical and aesthetic perspective, the mechanical movement and reversed manual winding allow the apple-shaped hands to move backwards, rather than forward. I also couldn’t have pictured a more perfect interpretation of this piece than the boldness of the carnelian dial and platinum pairing. (A hopefully useful tidbit: How to distinguish a platinum Cartier timepiece from its white gold or steel counterparts? The cabochon placed in the crown will always be set with a ruby, rather than a sapphire).
Between creating the new timepiece for the fashion set and reversing the hands of time, the Maison certainly hadn’t forgotten about its most anticipated collection. Often dubbed the annual event for watchmaking enthusiasts, Cartier Privé – now in its eighth edition – is an exclusive opus that offers a contemporary interpretation of one of the most prestigious watches in the watchmaker’s repertoire. In previous years, we have seen the iconic Crash, Tank Cintrée and the Tonneau revisited. And this year, the Maison journeyed back to 1912, reimagining the Tortue watch; a silhouette that cemented Cartier as the watchmaker of shapes.
Born from a powerful creative vision to create a dialogue between curves and taut lines, the new Tortue – presented in both a single-button chronograph complication, as well as the simple “hours/minutes” version – remains faithful to the original design while celebrating some subtle reworks. Much of its magic lies within the nuances of the craftsmanship; a slimmer profile has not only allowed for a lighter wear but has elongated the design – creating breathe and space for the apple-shaped hands, rail-track and counters on the chronograph to settle in seamlessly.
Editor's notes:
Not everyone wants to look at their reflection all day, but when the mirror image is this good, how can you resist? I don’t typically gravitate towards rose gold, but in the Reflection de Cartier, the colouring has a hold on me. A bracelet, a watch – why not both?
A spot of Cartier trivia – the Tortue (French for ‘turtle’) was first introduced in 1912, making it older than almost every shape created by the Maison except the Santos-Dumont, which was introduced eight years prior.
Feature image: From bottom left to right – CARTIER Reflection de Cartier watch, CARTIER Tank Louis Cartier watch, CARTIER Tortue watch, CARTIER Reflection de Cartier and CARTIER Santos-Dumont Rewind.
