Last season Matthieu Blazy put a full stop next to his Italian trilogy for Bottega Veneta. Fuelled by the prospect of new beginnings – one assumes, it is spring after all – the creative director pulled back the rubber band and let his imagination soar in the opposite direction. Goodbye Italia, hello world!
From the outset, it was clear Blazy intended to take us globetrotting, even if no one actually left their seats. Guests received a compass on a neat leather strap as part of the show invitations for Bottega Veneta SS24, which in itself is a neat metaphor for the Italian house; as other label's grasp for new concepts, experience very public growing pains, it has become custom that Bottega Veneta shines as our sartorial north star.
Blazy's Bottega Veneta is not immune to external influences – we recognise this when Anok Yai steps out in the prevailing underwear as outerwear trend, but these nods are considered and never overdone. Find me a person who wouldn't want to saunter out in that expertly cut pinstripe suit, the soft cream henleys and architectural column skirts, or one of those midnight intrecciato hobo bags, so brazenly big one could pack their life inside, put it on a stick and use it as a luxurious leather bindle.
Texture is something Bottega Veneta handles with expertise, the SS24 collection was a landscape abundant in clashing and harmonising finishes. From the glossy leather neck ties, frayed fringed hemlines, zig-zag cuffs, knotty Kalimero bucket bags, giant pom pom embellishments, craggy woven sweaters and balloon skirts with waterfalls of dancing threads. There was not a single point at which these various textiles became overwhelming or busy – even if on paper they should be, a sign that Blazy has scratched out a design language that not only works, but triumphs. We'll take a one-way ticket, please.