The skincare community was up in arms over the weekend upon learning the news that French skincare brand Biologique Recherche was discontinuing its very cult, very famous Lotion P50 1970 (cue the search for P50 alternatives).
True fans will know that Lotion P5o 1970 was the original formula – dubbed the 'purists choice' because it included phenol, an antiseptic chemical that's banned in Europe. While the 1970 iteration is being discontinued (the last shipment was allegedly sent into the US last month) the more widely available P50, P50 V, P50 W and P50 PIGM are around for good. Thank god. It's also worth pointing out you couldn't really buy 1970 in Australia, anyway.
For the uninitiated, P50 is a rebalancing toner, and a core step in the Biologique Recherche skin method. It exfoliates thanks to a broad acid profile, while preparing the complexion for remaining skincare. It's well-known for its scent: a pungent mix of vinegar, onion and horseradish (think salad dressing), but mostly the incredible way in which it brightens, smooths and unifies the skin.
It's not really dupe-able, but there are similar products out there (whether you're looking to replace your beloved 1970, try something less fragrant, or just save some money). Find the best P50 alternatives according to RUSSH, below.
Moon Juice Acid Potion
There are quite a few beauty editors and experts who claim this is really close, if not better than its French counterpart. It's quite concentrated (25% AHAs and BHAs) so it not only exfoliates the skin's surface, but also decongests and refines pores. There's reishi mushroom, niacinamide and vitamin E to simultaneously soothe. A worthy P50 alternative.
Glossier Solution
Insiders will tell you that the 'Solution' was Emily Weiss' answer to a Glossier P50 (she was/is a big fan, and the one who coined 'trash face'). Solution has lots of acids (glycolic, salicylic, lactic, phytic, gluconolactone) so it exfoliates, smooths and hydrates. While not as 'cult', it's a worthy contender.
Danucera D22 Tonic
Rescue Spa is NYC's Biologique Recherche dealer of choice. The facials are legendary (I've had one, it was epic), and founder Danuta Mieloch is a BR evangelist. Just today, they posted about the Danucera D22 Tonic, calling it out as a replacement for previously-stocked P50 1970 — consider me intrigued. It's an acid rich lotion, but also contains grape, birch water and glycerin (similar to BR's 'natural' inclusions). It's French made, too...
Ren Ready Steady Glow Daily AHA Tonic
This toner comes with rave reviews ('magic' and 'holy grail' are terms that repeatedly pop up). It contains gentle AHAs, including lactic and azelaic acid, as well as white willow bark — a plant-derived BHA to refine pores. Think of it as a less intense option for sensitive, dull or congested skin.
Dr Dennis Gross Universal Alpha Beta Peel
This is more of a dedicated chemical peel, but worthy of mention. Inspired by in-clinic treatments Dr Dennis is famous for In NYC, the two-step skin system exfoliates thanks to a cocktail of skin-perfecting acids, before step two 'deactivates' the acids while simultaneously infusing the skin with antioxidants, hydrators and all the good stuff. What you end up with is smooth, even, clear skin, and a healthy barrier.
Tarte Knockout Tingling Treatment
A wildcard entry, but this is known as a P50 dupe (kind of). It has salicylic and lactic acid, but also niacinamide to soothe, sulfur to clean pores, and glycerin to rehydrate. Interestingly, there's onion, horseradish and thyme inside, too...
Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant
If you are easily congested or battling blackheads, this is the formula for you. It is purely a BHA exfoliant, meaning it dissolves oil within pores, treating existing breakouts while preventing their formation. It's no P50, but it's equally Internet famous as an acne silver bullet.
Go-To Glow Exfoliator
This liquid toner does a little bit of everything: it regulates oil production, exfoliates and infuses the skin with antioxidants, leaving it bright and bouncy.
Chantecaille Purifying and Exfoliating Phytoactive Solution
This toner is formulated with acids, plus ferments for a calm, clear complexion. There's rosemary, nettle, even rose water for a burst of sensorial hydration (and a Chantecaille signature). Perfect for brightening and softening normal to drier skin.
Augustinus Bader The Essence
This essence is bouncy and fresh, like a drink for thirsty skin. It does exfoliate (there's phytic and salicylic acid inside) but it's more of a redensifying, glow-inducing layer of watery moisture. Kind of like a P50 alternative, but juicier.
Royal Fern Phytoactive Skin Perfecting Essence
More people need to know about the magic that is Royal Fern. The brand was founded by dermatologist Dr. Timm Golueke, who started formulating with a patented fern extract, based on research that proved its ability to dramatically improve skin health, keeping it younger for longer. The Skin Perfecting Essence in particular exfoliates the skin, encourages repair while prepping for serums and moisturisers.
Images: Filomena Natoli for Biologique Recherche, Moon Juice
