Once the bee’s knees of trading woad (historically used to dye fabrics blue) Toulouse lies in the southwest of France between the Mediterranean and the Atlantic, has one of the country’s oldest universities, reigns as Europe’s air and space capital, and has Airbus HQ up the road. It curves gently toward the Pyrenees and rests in the middle of Henri Toulouse-Lautrec’s name.
Known as the ‘Rose City’ for its pink terracotta buildings built from the Garonne River’s clay, the city is filled with history and students, cobbled streets and rubbish bins, beanies, robust wines, restaurants, and firm handshake people. The bread here is fantastic, and there are a surprising amount of dogs. On that, the ground is littered with feces, so watch your step to avoid binding your Salomons with stool.
Toulouse was cold for three days. My best friend, Evie, lent me some tights, and Eddie got into the Chenin Blanc. There was an abundance of cheese, foie gras, pâté en croûte, and wine, and we walked around for hours. We ate… a lot. But for good reason: this place is fantastic. It’s a city well worth visiting, and here are some ideas on how to make the most of it.
Where to stay
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The Saint-Aubin neighbourhood has tree-lined townhouses, cute bars, and coffee shops. Stay at an Airbnb and follow the Canal du Midi in the morning, have a coffee at Bar Le St Aubin, select some cheeses from Massembea and cross the road for a croissant from Boulangerie Pâtisserie Saint Aubin.
What to do
Eat and drink, responsibly. As in, try all the food and all the wine you can. It’s not Paris, so there’s no territorial snootiness with your terrine. Have a baguette for breakfast and hit La Mare Aux Canards for a Cassoulet lunch, the famed southwestern hearty stew. Sylvie Bigar, author of Cassoulet Confessions (2022), called the scent of caramelised sensuality “bewitching” and she’s not wrong. Ribbons of pork skin stretch under the thick mixture of herbs, duck, beans, pork, sausage, and what feels like a million other ingredients. Les Tilleuls for dinner, friends and wine. The manager Alex’s favourite spots for the fine dining end of things include Contre-Pied, Cécile, L' Air de Famille, and Mordus. For a cocktail, maybe hit Tempête, L*Agence, Kodomo, or the Fat Cat Cocktail bar.
Sit. Sit by the Garonne River, next to the Pont Neuf bridge. Snack on a baguette, cheese, and saucisson or walk up the ramp and soak in the sun from the patio of the Café des Artistes with an Aperol Spritz, of course. Have a guided tour with Jessica Hammer of Taste of Toulouse. Walk around with Jessica, who offers private and small-group tours around the region, meeting food, wine, and history in an intimate setting. “Locals live and work here and enjoy the beauty simultaneously,” she says, “and our terrace culture is amazing.” Even in winter, “you’ll see people sipping rosé at the Victor Hugo market or relaxing by the river and or at a nearby café in Place Saint George.”
Where to go
The Victor Hugo Market: Walk to The Victor Hugo Market for education, a dopamine hit or lunch supplies. Try some cheeses from Betty or pop a few oysters from La Mariniere. Beer? Head to the boys at Chez Catherine (pictured below) and hang out.
Albi: Enzo Dal Mas, a friend from Albi, an hour northeast of Toulouse, tells me that the town is steeped in mystery, Cathar history, and spirituality. With all its Gothic architecture, it's a great spot for a day trip, and learning about the Cathars — vegetarian, feminist Christians who pissed off the Pope and confronted the King — is fascinating. You can also visit the Toulouse-Lautrec museum since he was born here.
Carcassonne: Pack a jambon beurre and spend a few hours learning about the preserved fortress city, and its countless towers, battlements, and 800-year-old history of Inquisitions and Cathar heretics.
The Basilica of Saint-Sernin: Built over a modest, 5th-century basilica, Saint-Sernin is the largest Romanesque church in the country. The barrel-vaulted ceilings top a 115-meter-long nave, and the five-storey bell tower sinks a sharp spire into the sky.
There is a cheerfulness that cuts through the cold, and the food is arrestingly good. Jessica says the city's appeal lies in its vibrant centre, welcoming atmosphere, and relaxed, unpretentious cultural scene. It comes through wonderfully, and though it has some odd habits (the dog poo thing), it avoids the food and wine elitism often tied to a Carhartt apron. Instead, people share smiles that echo the rosy-pink blush of the walls, brightening even the greyest days.
My friend David (who also runs tour group Madridivine) calls it “a place where food, culture, and community are blood-deep,” and I couldn’t agree more. I fell in love within 24 hours.
A really great city, I tell Evie.
“It really is,” she says.
