You always go out on a limb when you attempt to forecast the year ahead in trends. With no crystal ball but a season of shows to aid us, we present the following predictions. Girlhood-centred trends will fade out and quiet luxury will morph into the brand of 90s minimalism we associate with Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy – no small coincidence given we'll observe the anniversary of her death this year. There will also be a rise in 80s silhouettes, and TikTok will become obsessed with the New Romantic movement (goodbye clowncore, balletcore, and whatever else they anointed in 2023). British culture will maintain its newfound air of cool thanks to designers like Daniel Lee and Grace Wales Bonner, while the 1920s will find interesting ways to sneak up on us. But this is just speculation.
Metallic Accents
Left to right: Jacquemus AW23, Loewe SS24, Blumarine SS24, 16Arlington SS24, Blumarine SS24, and Maryam Nassir Zadeh SS24.
Metallic pops of colour splashed out onto many a runway in 2023, and we expect the phenomenon will reach its apex in 2024. From silver party dresses to chrome accessories and ballet flats, take inspiration from Jacquemus, Maryam Nassir Zadeh, Blumarine, Supriya Lele and naturally, Beyonce's Renaissance tour.
British culture
Left to right: Burberry SS24, Miu Miu SS24, and Wales Bonner SS24.
Polo shirts, football, English roses, Daniel Lee at Burberry, literati @socks_house_meeting, Wales Bonner, the nostalgic rise of greasy spoons, Vivienne Westwood, even – and I hate to be this on the nose – throwback looks to Skins style icons like Cassie and Effy (like this at Miu Miu FW22 and this quite literally everywhere). British culture is back! If you find patriotism tricky, a key distinction to note: young designers, chips and eggs good, neocolonialism and monarchy bad. Now go on and enjoy.
Jazz Age
While some designers concerned themselves with 90s minimalism or 80s silhouettes, others like Bode, Jil Sander, Prada, and Bottega Veneta dropped hemlines and let them dance with shimmering fringe and beadwork, and headwear to match.
New Romantics
Left to right: Renaissance Renaissance SS24, Louis Vuitton SS24, Louis Vuitton SS24, Nicklas Skovgaard, Molly Goddard SS24, Jacquemus SS24, and Claire Sullivan.
Now this is a bit of a mishmash of trends. I have a friend who has spent the last couple of years building a Pinterest board of pirate looks in anticipation that the aesthetic will muscle its way into the mainstream. Think Alexander McQueen's skull scarf, Hussar Jackets, ruffle blouses, red stripes, and big stompy boots. She's one of the most stylish people I know and is generally right about these things. You can't deny the return of 80s looks either, with bubble skirts, tights, and bomber jackets returning. Which leads me to think we're due for a return of the New Romantics style – and 80s looks more broadly.
While we'll remember 2023 as The Year Of The Girl – all bows, rosettes, coquette moments, and girlish fantasies – there was a dissonance between contemporary politics and notions like "girl math" or "girl dinner". Which is where New Romantic comes in. It's the perfect mix of escapism and self-awareness, frivolity and punk. It's androgynous, maximalist and encourages DIY, and like those of us who turned to girlhood as a refuge away from the trials of our current times, the New Romantics opted for the style as an antidote to the austerity of Thatcher, and against the backdrop of AIDS and the abandonment of the working class. Prepare for an influx of bubble skirts, bomber jackets, big shoulders, and slouchy boots like Loewe's Toy Boot.
Eyelets
Left to right: Alaia Summer Fall 2023, Prada SS24, Dion Lee SS24, ALL-IN, and Chopova Lowena SS24.
Blame it on Alaïa, we certainly will. But the humble yet erotic eyelet is garnishing collections at a rapid speed. Soon to be the staple of edgelords and minimalists alike.
Feature image: Bode AW23, Blumarine SS24, Louis Vuitton SS24, 16Arlington SS24, and Burberry SS24.
