You know Christmas is approaching when panettone appears on the shelves. Growing up in an Italian household, we always had one stuffed in the pantry for unexpected guests – and you could count on being gifted (or regifted) a box every year without fail. It's a polarising dessert. The style you get in standard supermarkets and delicatessens can be dense, dry, yoghurty, filled with saccharine dried fruit and stodgy custard. Then you have a good one, and it alters your opinion on the Milanese brioche entirely.
A good panettone is fluffy and moist inside with a sticky protruding macaronade crust. Some are flecked with nuts or orange peel, and when they begin to go stale, make the best French toast or bread and butter pudding. Lucky for us, the tides are turning and alongside the towers of imported preservative-packed panettones, an offering of locally-made artisan options can be found.
These are the ones we like to eat. Below, a round up of panettone that could sway even the staunchest of opposers.
SONOMA X ICEBERGS 2023 Cherry and Chocolate Panettone
Maurice Terzini has teamed up with Sonoma Bakery again for another limited edition run of its beloved panettone. This year, the duo has fused Belgian milk chocolate, Australian almonds and brandied cherries into its loaf. Polish off before New Year's Day.
PIOIK BAKERY Panettone
Pioik Bakery's annual panettone is a labour of love that takes its head baker, Shady Wasef, at least 36 hours to bring to fruition. Wasef studied the technique – which involves hanging the sweet loaf suspended upside-down – from Italian baker Mauro Scaglia. Made from free-range eggs, butter, candied orange peel and raisins, it's a knockout.
SIMON JOHNSON Mini Panettone
An alternative for when Simon Johnson's hefty 1kg delight is sold out – or for a party of one. It's made from a 75-year-old mother yeast, so you know it's serious business. The pretty box packaging makes it an ideal gift too.
RIVERINO Gelato and Gianduia Panettone
Chances are you were going to eat it with ice cream anyway, why not combine the two? Local gelato shop Riverino is taking pre-orders for its famous gelato-injected gianduia-topped panettone. Pick from flavours like ricotta and fig, hazelnut, coffee and more.
ALL ARE WELCOME Panettone
All Are Welcome bakery is bringing the craft involved in making panettone to its local community in Northcote, Melbourne. It's baked without yeast or preservatives, and calls on more esoteric ingredients like bergamot, sunrise lime, along with candied citrus, Victorian Currants, raisins and sultanas for the filling.