Australian-born chef James Henry began his professional career in Melbourne under the wing of maestro Andrew McConnell before setting his sights on Paris. It was there he opened beloved eatery, Au Passage, and subsequently his restaurant, Bones. The latter was a raucous, good-time spot serving hyper-seasonal dishes with a standing-room-only bar and a revolving blackboard menu. For the last five years, James has been working on his latest project, Le Doyenné.
What are the 10 ingredients you always have in your fridge?
Salted butter, Cantabrian anchovies, Parmigiano Reggiano, crème crue, bottarga, courgette zuni pickles, champagne, preserved Menton lemons, Yuzu Kosho and Kimchi.
What is your most memorable dining experience?
Sugita, Tokyo. A journey from start to finish. Elegance and balance in each bite. Mesmerizing gestures. Wish I had subtitles to catch the chefs’ jokes.
What influenced your love of food?
I ate well growing up. Both my parents cooked well. I find immense pleasure in eating well. Food feels like the perfect medium to discover different cultures and guide travels.
Who is the best cook you know?
All my closest friends are chefs. Naming one could be inflammatory to others.
Who is on your dream dinner party table?
Svante, Jeff, Matt, Hugh, Shaun, Alice.
What is your favourite vegetable (we believe it tells you everything you need to know about someone)?
Onions, the base of global cooking and a wonderful ingredient in its own right.
Top five favourite places to dine?
Elkano in Getaria, Lyles in London, Le Baratin in Paris, Le Clarence in Paris and Bunon in Tokyo.
Recipe for Asparagus and Anchoiade (serves 4)
I love eating things straight from the garden. We’re lucky to be able to grow our own vegetables here at La Doyenne. This dish is a classic French dish, elegant and beautifully simple.
Ingredients
125g anchovies
1 clove garlic
60ml water
40ml Banyuls vinegar
20g olives
200ml EVOO
3 large green asparagus per person
Method
(1) For the anchoiade, bring all ingredients except asparagus together in a blender or mortar and blitz or bash.
(2) Start a fire in your barbecue, wait for a nice blanket of coals to form. Grill the asparagus for three minutes each side. Serve with a generous spoon of anchoiade.
