Can you actually treat pigmentation? Here's what an expert says

WORDS Emily Algar PUBLISHED Wed, 18 Dec 2024 - 9:50 am

Pigmentation is a fickle skin concern. It occurs when melanin is overproduced or unevenly distributed, resulting in darkened or discoloured patches. Often, it happens when we least expect it (a sun-soaked youth, pregnancy or the like) but once it's set in, it's very difficult to treat.

But with a targeted approach, it is possible to lessen its appearance (plus, prevent things from getting worse). It takes time and nuance, and so to help, I asked Vita from Dolce Vita Skin. She's a pigmentation guru and believes in sunscreen, P50, lasers and other proven skin stuff for an even, balanced complexion.

Her advice and recommendations o how to actually treat pigmentation, below.

What causes pigmentation and melasma?

Pigmentation and melasma can be triggered by a multitude of factors, including:

Sun exposure (this is especially common for anyone living in Australia).
Hormones, especially in the case of melasma and chloasma during pregnancy. This usually looks like brown splotches, sometimes in a butterfly-like pattern.
The contraceptive pill, hormone therapy or IVF.
Genetics and skin type can also impact the incidence and severity of pigmentation, for example sensitivity or where your skin sits on the Fitzpatrick scale.

Can you actually treat pigmentation?

According to Vita, it's almost impossible to completely eliminate pigmentation once it's occured. It can be reduced or inhibited, but it's important to have reasonable expectations.

"The number one thing is to apply sunscreen every single day. Find one that feels good so you're inclined to wear it. Wearing a hat, sunglasses and protective clothing are also important. If you have existing pigment or it's triggered by hormonal changes, it can be stubborn as it usually sits deeper in the skin, at a cellular level — you can't exfoliate it off. But a combination of laser treatments and topicals can help over time. I recommend you have an expert assist you as they can determine the depth of the pigment and most suitable treatments. In some cases conditions like melasma will fade on their own after pregnancy, too."

Does laser help treat pigmentation?

"Laser treatments can help in the treatment of pigmentation. IPL is effective for sun induced pigment as it works to replace the damaged skin with new skin. I also find that peels and Pico laser helpful in the treatment of uneven skin tone. If your pigment is purely hormonal, it can be near impossible, especially if the trigger persists."

Ingredients that work

For mild to moderate cases of pigment, brightening ingredients like vitamin C, vitamin B3 (niacinamide), azelaic acid and liquorice extracts all come recommended by Vita. "Even products that contain hyaluronic acid can assist as the sun can destroy our natural supply of hyaluronic acid, and it's the molecule responsible for a plump, hydrated look," she adds. "Dermatologists will often prescribe hydroquinone for pigmentation, but it can cause irritation and should not be used long term."

Expert product recommendations

Rationale No. 2 The Serum

"The Rationale No.2 collection is designed to support natural defences while fading the appearance of of pigmentation over time. It protects the skin from daily aggressors like free radicals, oxidative stress, pollutants and infrared radiation."

iS Clinical Brightening Serum

"This serum helps to reduce the appearance of uneven skin tone whilst increasing hydration in the skin."

Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 PIGM 400

"Lotion P50 Pig 400 contains lightening and brightening ingredients, exfoliates the skin, rebalances pH in the skin reduces sun induced pigment."

Does LED help improve pigmentation?

LED light therapy is one of the most common treatments I use in clinic because it addresses so many skin conditions and gives great results in terms of skin healing, hydration and breakouts. It's non-invasive and there's no down time, either. Whilst at-home masks are popular, they don't have the same strength/voltage as in-clinic professional devices. But there is evidence to suggest that the higher quality LED home devices if used on a regular basis improve skin quality. The effects are cumulative though, so you won’t see immediate results.