Should you add a barrier cream to your skincare routine?

WORDS Emily Algar PUBLISHED Thu, 10 Oct 2024 - 12:10 pm

This morning, Miss Hailey Bieber announced the launch of her latest Rhode skincare product, Barrier Butter (with a campaign fronted by Claudia Schiffer, so good). The barrier cream is being marketed as an 'intensive moisture balm' to 'strengthen the skin barrier and seal in moisture for up to 24 hours' — essentially a bolstered iteration of the existing Barrier Restore Cream. It's also multi-purpose, and probably really useful for a new mum.

We don't have access to Rhode in Australia yet (satisfy your Pocket Blush and Peptide Lip Treatment cravings here) but barrier creams are nothing new. The goal of a barrier cream is to repair and protect the skin barrier, preventing things like moisture loss, dryness and irritation. They're popular in French pharmacies, and have gained huge traction on TikTok thanks to the rise of trends like 'slugging' and 'moisture sandwiching'.

We can't have Barrier Butter, but we do have access to a suite of existing formulas for plump, protected skin year round. Find every single RUSSH favourite, below.

What is a barrier cream?

A barrier cream typically comes as a rich moisturiser, balm or ointment, and has two main functions: preventing water loss while restoring skin barrier function.

Our skin barrier refers to the outer layer of our complexion; it's protective and works like a shield, defending against pathogens and environmental damage. The skin is a self-serving organ, but certain things like excessive skincare, sun damage or harsh environments (like an aeroplane) can disturb it. This is where a barrier cream comes in handy — it will perform the same functions our barrier normally would, while facilitating its repair.

Barrier creams are usually occlusive, meaning they create a 'seal'. What this means is increased water retention for skin that's soft, plump and bouncy. If you're dry or prone to redness and sensitivity, it's a worthy routine inclusion year round.

What ingredients should I look for in a barrier cream?

You want to look for ingredients that are going to soothe and nourish, while also working to occlude or lock in moisture:

Ceramides (these are almost like the building blocks that hold our skin cells together)
Shea Butter as well as other plant oils and butters
Zinc
Squalane
Oatmeal
Panthenol
Pre and Probiotics
Mineral Oil
Petrolatum (this is a divisive one, but is a recognised skin protectant and the key ingredient in OG barrier products like Vaseline)

Should I be slugging?

Slugging is a term that speaks to finishing your nighttime routine with a super-thick cream or balm, the intent being unmatched hydration and skin smoothness. It's almost like applying body butter to your feet, and then putting on a pair of socks. Some people use OG pharmacy products like Vaseline or Aquaphor, while others use more modern iterations like Weleda Skin Food and La Roche-Posay Cicaplast. Either way, the idea is to 'slug' before bed, ensuring soft, soothed, hydrated skin the next day.

If you often experience dryness, tightness, flaking or irritation, go forth and try it. But if you're oily and prone to breakouts, it could exacerbate the issue. Stick to a lightweight, non-comedogenic moisturiser instead.

How do I use a barrier cream?

Barrier creams are best at night, as the final step in your skincare routine. You can use it alone, or on top of your regular moisturiser.

The best skin barrier creams, according to RUSSH:

Rationale The Crème

Intensely rich, this buttery balm melts when it comes into contact with warm skin, bolstering barrier functions thanks to a mix of lipids, Ceramides and plant oils.

Dr Jart+ Ceramidin Skin Barrier Moisturising Cream

This cult Korean formula uses Ceramides to rebuild the skin, delivering deep moisture and instant comfort.

La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5+

Internet famous and a French pharmacy staple, Cicaplast is a balmy formula that replenishes and heals stressed out skin thanks to a mix of Prebiotics, Panthenol and Madecassoside extracted from Centella.

Avene Cicalfate Restorative Protective Cream

This is useful for cuts, abrasions, post-procedure skin — basically anything you can think of. Fortified with thermal water and Copper-Zinc Sulfate, it encourages healing and soothes irritation.

CHANEL No. 1 de Chanel Rich Revitalising Creme

If you want a barrier cream but you also want luxury, this is the one. Velvety and comforting, it wraps the skin up in Ceramides extracted from CHANEL camellias for intense hydration and protection.