Alessandro Michele’s distinct penchant for elegance and maximalism has struck a new chord at Valentino, with his debut Spring Summer '25 collection, ‘Pavillon des Folies.’

The fashion industry has been waiting with bated breath for Michele to re-enter the fashionable fold, having exited his role at Gucci in late 2023. And while the designer has already unveiled his resort collection in look book format back in June, for his first in-person triumph, Michele asked: “What is beauty anyway?” The answer was revealed on a dimly lit runway dressed like a French salon. Here, models appeared in a lavish lineup of sumptuous fabrics and romantic silhouettes, which seemed to recall an eclectic mix of decades gone by — from the ‘20s, to the ‘60s.

With each look, Michele made a case for beauty as the ultimate arbiter of joy, reminding showgoers — among them, Harry Styles, Hari Nef, and Elton John — of the joy of dressing up. “In this perspective, beauty can represent a remedy for the anguish that arises from the ephemeral and undetermined nature of our destiny,” Michele mused in the show notes. “An anchor to navigate within that pavillon des folies we call life.”

Indeed, models were dressed for a soirée. Silk gowns accented with delicate beading and feathered trim recalled those worn by old Hollywood starlets, while drop-waist dresses and negligee-inspired camisoles felt pulled straight from the roaring '20s.

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This message was made even clearer by the designer’s use of accessories. From collarbone-grazing earrings and elaborate facial jewellery, to face-framing veils and hats of extreme proportion, no accessory was deemed too delicate to be saved for a special occasion.

While Spring Summer ‘25 might mark the start of a new era for Valentino, Michele was also sure to pay tribute to the Italian House’s long past. Distinct codes like the Valentino's signature shade of red, accordion collars, and an ample use of bows recalled the brand's distinctly elegant history. At the same time, floor-sweeping chiffon and touches of glamour pointed to a new sartorial direction. Where will Valentino and Alessandro Michele go from here? We'll certainly be watching.