In partnership with Onitsuka Tiger

 

While many designers looked to the past to develop their Spring/Summer 2025 collections, for cult label Onitsuka Tiger, it was all about the future. To commemorate their 75th anniversary, the Japanese streetwear label was inspired by youth – a fitting muse, when you consider the label has an unwaveringly dedicated Gen Z following.

Held at Rotonda Della Besana – a former cemetery in the centre of Milan – the collection, titled Urban Beats, was a celebration of contrasts. The ancient complex (which was built in the 17th century) came alive with pops of Onitsuka Tiger’s signature yellow hue, while fluid silhouettes and delicate details were offset by sharp tailoring and edgy accessories. It was these opposing elements that, combined, told the story of the often fraught journey into adulthood or, as the show notes put it, a “portrayal of growth in which vulnerability and strength, intimacy and self-expression coexist.”

Naturally, shoes were also a focus of this collection. Cementing the label as one of the most forward-thinking footwear purveyors of today, models wove in and out of the gardens in an array of statement-making yet practical styles. Think: fluffy slippers, androgynous loafers, and sensible sandals. And to commemorate the milestone anniversary, Onitsuka Tiger collaborated with textile brand Wolford on a capsule collection which spanned skin-hugging dresses, effortlessly draped tops, and stockings in nude tones of every shade.

If, like us, you wish you could've witnessed the magic of the runway firsthand, you're in luck: Australian creative Yan Yan Chan scored a front row seat, and she documented all the action exclusively for RUSSH. Below, see inside the Onitsuka Tiger Spring/Summer '25 collection through Yan Yan's eyes.

Before a show, I like to fuel myself. We have lunch at Trattoria Della Pesa, a Milanese institution. During fashion week, you always bump into people at restaurants but it’s mostly Italian men in suits on their lunch break here. I come here for the Osso Buco with saffron rice - it’s nice to share that with a melanzane and a side of steamed vegetables.

I never drink coffee but I always make an exception when I’m in Italy! Some outfit details… Onitsuka Tiger are known for their sneakers, I have on the Sclaw MT high top sneakers — but their ready to wear is what I am most excited about. Everything is always fresh, boyish and sharply cut. Today, I'm wearing a turtle neck and sequinned skirt — but I also loved the Knit Top and WS Printed Skirt from the Yellow Tiger Collection.

No one is ever early to a fashion show, I try to be punctual in Milano but the city always has other plans. I arrive just after 5pm at Rotonda Della Besana and fans are already screaming with the arrival of Momo. It’s always such a spectacle, I love how excited everyone gets.

The show starts at 5.35pm. Genderless garments are seen weaving in and out of the garden.

 

Black, saccharine, barely there silk dresses, big boyish loafers, nude socks, pale blue, seduction, boys in lace, big gowns with fluffy slip ons. As the show starts to finish, I think about what youth means to me, and what it means when someone describes a collection as “youthful”. Maybe it’s me nearing the end of my 20’s, and reflecting on how I’ve dressed throughout this decade, but I think it really means holding close to that element of playfulness, and doing the opposite of what we think we should. That little piece that gets a little forgotten sometimes when we put on our big boy loafers or our big girl blazer. I think Andrea Pompilio does that wonderfully in SS25 - when things get a little too grown up, add a little sparkle, or lace, or fluff. The Onitsuka Tiger person is growing up, but they’re still in their youth.