Hobart. I had made up my mind about Tasmania's capital, or so I thought, on a family holiday in 2008. We caught the Spirit of Tasmania over, the ship's screening of The Corpse Bride was interrupted by the sounds of children vomiting, we drove around a lot, I got the creeps at Port Arthur, Cradle Mountain was fun, it was cold. You'll notice that Hobart, or nipaluna, doesn't feature very much into these recollections, that's because besides a good Chinese restaurant, I don't remember it. That was my position: unmemorable. Then I grew up. Dark Mofo and MONA were on my radar, I read my first Richard Flanagan novel and I'd heard friends in hospitality whisper about the city's dining scene. OK fine. I'll check it out again, this time with adult eyes. How wrong I initially was.
Hobart's whole thing is that it's greener, more rugged, with cleaner water and air than anywhere else in Australia. You get great local native oysters, leatherwood honey, abalone, Tasmania truffles, not to mention you're always a short drive to the mountains and sea. This was the drawcard for some of the country's best chefs, like Analiese Gregory and Adam James, who now live in nipaluna. And if you're after some great local eating, we've compiled this list of restaurants in Hobart for your lonely mouth.
Thought experiment: say you have a weekend in Hobart, what do you do? If all that comes up is to visit Salamanca Markets, then we're here to help. From cooking classes to hiking kunanyi, find 10 things to do next time you're in Hobart, below.
Grab a coffee at Sunbear
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Get things circulating with a cup of Joe. Thankfully, Sunbear do some of the city's best. It's like the name suggests, everything in this place radiates with a sunny attitude. So while you're here, might as well stay for breakfast where half-moon omelettes, egg salad sandwiches and haricot bean stew fill out the menu. Alternatively, if you're staying at The Tasman – and we recommend you do, pop downstairs to Peppina where you can have a hearty all-you-can-eat breakfast.
Take cooking lessons with your favourite chefs
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Drive 30 minutes outside of Hobart and you'll find local institution The Agrarian Kitchen housed in the historic Willow Court complex. Not only does The Agrarian Kitchen serve up an entirely local set menu, it hosts regular cooking, gardening and lifestyle classes. As far as cooking is concerned, high-profile chefs like Danielle Alvarez, Andrew McConnell, Peter Gilmore, and Flour and Stone's Nadine Ingram have each led workshops in the past. While fermentation king Adam James, baker Belinda Jeffrey, and Michelin star-trained chef Analiese Gregory are next up to share their culinary wisdom. Run don't walk.
Split a bottle at Sonny
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Or two. Who's counting? Whether it's to kick-start your night or wind things down, Sonny is our favourite way to bookend a good time. Start with some prosciutto toast and oysters or a spoon of tiramisu if you've eaten elsewhere. The real hero is Sonny's list of natural wines which you'll want to sample thoroughly while you listen to whatever record's spinning. It's likely you'll need to queue, so bring a friend, Sonny is walk-in only.
Listen to some live music
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With institutions like Altar and Odeon, you're never too far from a gig in Hobart. Both will be familiar to any Dark Mofo regulars. Altar is a temple of music that tends to host younger, emerging artists while Odeon is larger and welcomes larger acts. Between the two, their 2024 schedule includes acts like Waxahatchee, Kita Alexander, Miss Kaninna, Rufus Wainwright, Thelma Plum and The Rubens.
Long lunch at Ogee
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Torn between a visit to Sonny or Templo? Ogee is the brainchild of Matt Breen, the chef responsible for all three venues, and takes the best bits of both local favourites (intimate setting, Italian soul, neighbourhood vibe, heavy on the wine) and has transported it to North Hobart. Picture this: you, a couple of friends, clinking glasses over skewers of gildas into the late afternoon.
Pick up ingredients at Farm Gate Markets
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BYO tote bag, you're going to need it at this local favourite and very low key farmer's market. Taking place every Sunday morning between 8.30am and 1pm in the CBD, Farm Gate Markets is the best advert for Tassie-grown produce showcasing the season's haul. Pick up a donut or cardamom bun while browsing or stuff your luggage with hot sauce, handmade pastas, cured meats and more.
Visit MONA, obviously
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You've done all the eating your stomach can handle (for a couple of hours anyway), you're not big on wrestling with nature nor are you lucid enough to follow a chef teach you knife skills. There's only one thing for it. Time for another round at MONA. Book your tickets, catch the ferry and commit to a day wandering around looking at James Turrell's and Alfredo Jaar's works. A Tasmanian visiting MONA? Good for you, tickets are practically free, depending on your age. Bad luck to mainlanders.
Book into a luxury day spa
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Sure, you could plan a day trip to Bruny Island or visit Cascade Brewery, knocking off all the stops on everyone's Hobart itinerary. Or you could rip up said itinerary and slow down by visiting Lavada day spa. Book in for a facial contouring massage which utilises lymphatic drainage or pamper your body with grounding massages, a cinnamon and walnut body scrub, scalp treatments or all three with one of Lavada's various spa packages. After all that hiking, eating and head-bobbing it's basically essential.
Plan your visit to Dark Mofo
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It would be remiss to exclude Dark Mofo when it really is the highlight of Tasmania's Off Season. Every year as the winter solstice draws near, punters find their way to a red-lit Hobart for the city's famous arts and cultural event. Spanning six days across two weeks in mid-June, this year Dark Mofo returned with an, albeit pared-back, lineup including Genesis Owusu, Marlon Williams and its signature solstice nude swim.
Take a hike up kunyani
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Go touch grass. No, like really. A hike up kunanyi will do you a world of good. It's 1271 metres to the summit, so no Overland Track, which makes it great for people of all fitness levels. Just remember to dress for the weather and go out on a clear day. Views from the top are pretty spectacular. You can see Hobart, the River Derwent and as far as the southern coastline. Feeling a little more intrepid? Take a cold water plunge in the mountain stream with this Fire and Ice Wellness Walk Tour (read about my experience of it here).
